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Sister act >> Les Trois Soeurs cooks up French cuisine in Beaconsfield by IVY TOLCHINSKY Years ago, while trying to prove my superiority over my younger sister, I blurted out, "You know, I've been your sister longer than you've been mine!" My victory being that she actually believed me--for a second or two. Then we both cracked up at my ridiculous remark and the tension was eased, at least for a while. But as close as sisters may become, in a work situation most of us would probably strangle each other inside of a minute. Yet the Bourgeault sisters--Tracey, Christine and Joanne--have been harmoniously operating their cozy restaurant on busy Beaconsfield boulevard for over two years. What's their secret? "For the most part we get along really well because we take care of different aspects of running the business," claims Tracey, the marketing brains of the trio. Joanne cooks up the storm while Christine oversees the floor staff. Recently the name Les Trois Soeurs was changed from the pseudo-French Le Beaconsfield, to suggest a more informal atmosphere. After being seated on the terrasse in plastic patio chairs (as informal as you can get), our waitress promptly brought us fresh, toasted French bread. It came with a tartinade of mashed potato, garlic, tomato paste and spices--creamy delight but loaded with garlic. I don't expect to get another cold for at least a couple of years. Les Trois Soeurs' menu offers a whole host of reliable French standards, including rack of lamb, steak tartare and dover sole meunière, as well as a variety of lighter pastas. Appetizers highlight old faves like mussels in white wine and escargots in puff pastry. Salads include tomato with bocconcini and another with warm goat cheese. In addition to an extensive à la carte menu, a table d'hôte ($18.5020) is also available. Our appetizers celebrated the blissful marriage of fruit and cheese. My friend's salad featured rounds of French bread covered in a sinfully melt-in-your-mouth warm goat cheese and sprinkled with poppy seeds. It was delicately garnished with cantaloupe, sliced apple, grapes and berries, which complimented the sharp cheese flavour perfectly. I chose an exquisite endive salad dressed in crumbled sharp Roquefort cheese and crushed walnuts, also finely accompanied by those seasonal fruits and a mild vinaigrette. While waiting for our main courses, we remarked that Beaconsfield's main drag was nothing like Montreal's Main: instead of a parade of buff beauties hugging cell phones and minute evening bags, we were treated to the constant stream of young Rollerbladers in baggy shorts, clutching popsicles and videos. It was only when our main dishes arrived that we turned our attention back to the table. I chose the steak tartare, a sophisticated dish of raw chopped sirloin, raw egg, lemon, onion, capers, pepper and a variety of other spices. I was as delighted with its rich flavour as I was disappointed with the frozen variety of french fries it was served with--crisp but cheap, they made me feel as though I were wearing an Armani suit with shoes from Payless. My daughter's order of rosemary-grilled "off the rack" lamb chops were tender and in good company with a handsome medley of buttered baby potatoes, pea pods and green beans. The linguine Florentine my friend chose was a simple dish, chock-full of fresh tasting spinach, but a little too buttery for my cholesterol-sensitive system. We rounded out our dinner (and our hips) by indulging in heavenly profiteroles with chocolate sauce. As we readied to leave, I thought it was refreshing that sisters can run a business together and actually make it work. Comments welcome: ivy@total.net
Les Trois Soeurs Address: 479 Beaconsfield (Woodland exit, off 20-West) Phone: (514) 694-6731 Hours: Lunch, TuesFri 11:30am2:30pm; Supper, TuesSun 5:3010:30pm Best Features: Creative use of seasonal produce, friendly service Alcohol: Yes Fish and seafood: Yes Vegetarian friendly: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes Price: $27/person with tax and tip Rating: **1/2 out of **** |