Le Club Chasse et Pêche doesn’t have a sign—well, it has a sign, but there’s no text on it, only a stylized icon that looks halfway between a coat of arms and a trendy fashion label logo. (Though if you walk up St-Claude, the scenic little Old Montreal side street where the Club sits, you’ll see the restaurant’s name on the delivery entrance. Can’t afford to mess around with deliveries.) This little nod towards exclusivity, as well as the restaurant’s name, is all part of the place’s charm. As far as I know, it isn’t actually a club in any sense beyond the aesthetic, and if any hunters or fishers were relaxing in their tweeds, their hounds leashed up outside, I didn’t notice them. Dark and cave-like and yet cheerful and comfortable (love the leather club chairs), it has a studied fake authenticity that you can enjoy without taking too seriously.

Le Club’s menu changes from week to week, although there are some mainstays, like the scallops and the risotto. Thus the prices tend to vary a bit—on a recent visit we found you could have a very nice lunch in the $18–$27 range, though you’d have to hike it up a bit (by about $10–$12) for dinner. Some weeks, though, the lunch menu (including starters) stays comfortably under $20.

This is all very reasonable, as the food is nothing short of great. I honestly can’t remember when I last enjoyed a restaurant this much. Visiting for lunch a few weeks ago, my companions and I started our meals by sharing the butternut squash ravioli ($3 with your plat principal), the leek tart (same), the seared scallops ($6, same deal), and—a total indulgence here—the gnocchi with shaved white truffles (a budget-busting $18).

The ravioli, made with mascarpone and adorned with almonds, was a sweet autumnal treat, the pasta perfectly cooked, and the filling a fine balance between the savoury and sugary. The leek tart was served “topless,” with no pastry covering the filling, which in addition to the leek was composed of cubed Yukon Gold potatoes and goat cheese. The potatoes and the convertible-car aspect of the tart really made it distinctive, and somewhat of a terrific surprise. The scallops, seared and served with a fennel purée, were nothing short of perfect; I’m not the biggest scallopmeister in the world but even I was won over by the three perfect little beauties, golden brown on top and perfectly soft and white below. No wonder this dish is a mainstay. It’s a must-order. And, if you have the cash and they’re serving it, the gnocchi is a must as well. I’ve never had gnocchi this good—soft and pillowy and cheesy and... the truffles! A waiter arrived with a single, perfect looking Italian truffle and an electronic scale, and proceeded to shave off exactly one gram of the stuff, sprinkling it over the pasta. The flavour! The mathematical precision! Heaven! It really was.

On to the mains. The linguini with roasted duck, rapini, and white wine sauce ($20) was maybe my second-favourite dish of the meal, after the gnocchi. The duck was roasted gorgeously—I think I can honestly say I’ve never had duck that good, the linguini and the sauce were savoury and delicious, and the bitter rapini was a brilliant touch. A perfect, perfect dish. The braised suckling pig risotto ($18, add $9 to get it with the foie gras) was mighty tasty as well, in addition to being another perfect fall dish, rich and hearty. Finally, the Kurobuta pork (a dark Japanese meat) with spinach, white beans and morel sauce was a delightful marriage of meat, vegetable and legume. No dish, really, brooked any serious complaint. Le Club is a true delight.

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Le Club Chasse et Pêche
ADDRESS: 423 St-Claude (just below Notre-Dame,
a couple of streets east of St-Laurent)
PHONE: 861-1112
HOURS: Tue–Fri 11 a.m.–2 p.m., 6:30–10 p.m.,
Sat 6:30–10 p.m., closed Sun–Mon
BEST FEATURES: Everything is amazing, though the
menu standards (scallops, risotto) are both superb
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Down some stairs
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Appetizers only
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: $18–$27 (lunch) or $29–$45 (dinner)
per person before tax, tip or wine
RATING: *** and a 1/2 out of ****