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In the white room >> Bright Bernard bistro Le Vaudeville hits the spot |
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by MARK SLUTSKY Decorated almost entirely in white, with great big mirrors adorning the walls, Le Vaudeville is one of the more understatedly pretty restaurants in Montreal, and certainly in its neighbourhood. Located on Bernard between Parc and Hutchison, Le Vaudeville isn't a cheap place to eat out, but it's not exactly upscale either - more like halfway there, with good bistro fare served in a pleasant, relaxed environment. We took a look at the restaurant's simple menu on a recent Tuesday evening, when, in contrast to the weekends, the place was almost empty. When we arrived, the only other guests appeared to be a large table occupied by people talking extremely seriously about food and the preparation thereof. This went on for a few hours, and we were later to learn that negotiations were taking place for a catering job, a sideline from which the restaurant derives about half its business. As hungry as we were, the food talk lit even more of a fire in our bellies, so we turned our attention back to the menu. We decided to split a couple of appetizers, going with the waiter's recommendations of grilled vegetables ($8) and the grilled octopus ($12). The grilled vegetables were a lot more exciting than their name would imply. Large and a little intimidating, the plate consisted of a stack of grilled eggplants, peppers, portabello mushrooms and romaine, all doused in a balsamic caramel sauce and topped off with a couple pats of strong chèvre. With its dark colours and hulking, shadowy shapes, the dish looked a little like a post-apocalyptic landscape, but damned if it didn't taste great, especially that sweet, sweet sauce (the chèvre was a really nice touch as well). The octopus wasn't as overwhelming as the grilled vegetables, but it was still quite tasty. Served cold, the meaty chunks and tentacles were sprinkled with fresh coriander, which made for a fresh summery meal. Half a small artichoke and various other vegetables filled out the dish nicely. The plats principaux section of the menu is big on meat and fish, with scant options for vegetarians. We ordered, among us, the steak et frites ($15), the shank of lamb à la star anise ($20), the sesame-crusted salmon ($16) and the veal liver ($18). The steak et frites, despite being a star dish (there's even a neon "steak et frites" sign outside), was no great shakes. I liked the frites - rectangular, chunky, with a soft interior - but the steak was tough and not particularly tasty - a bit of a disappointment. The lamb shanks, two massive things, were tender and flavourful, with the taste of star anise providing a nice accompaniment. Speaking of nice accompaniments, the saffron-infused butter sauce upon which the salmon rested was one of the more memorable flavours of the night. The salmon itself was very liberally encrusted with white and black sesame seeds, and although it was a touch too salty, it was very satisfying. It, like all the other dishes save the steak et frites, was served with a side of vegetables - a couple of asparagus stalks lay in a swoon over the fish, and there was some artichoke and potato action on the plate as well. The veal liver was quite a dish, too, made along the very same lines as the grilled vegetables - same sauce, same pat of chèvre. But we weren't complaining, as the sauce was worth revisiting, and the liver tender and just a little spongy. My friend really loved it, though it was a little too rich for my tastes. Le Vaudeville is a very nice place for a quiet dinner, and it's also really worthwhile to go by for brunch on the weekends, where you're treated to great big baskets of sugared brioches and other pastries, as well as the usual brunch options. Le Vaudeville |
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