The MirrorARCHIVES: Mar 11-17.2004 Vol. 19 No. 38  
Mirror Resto

Onside Italian

>> Sergio Momesso hits the five hole with
his West Island Caffé


 

by MATHILDE RABBAT

Montreal has seen its fair share of celebrity-owned restaurants. Nickels is Celine's brain child, Arnold, Bruce and Sly tried to cash in on Planet Hollywood, and Sergio hatched the Momesso Caffé. Naturally you've heard of the first few stars, but who, you may ask, is Sergio? Remember the way that hockey announcer called out, "Serrrrrrrrrgio Moh-messsssoooooh!," rolling the "r" as long as he possibly could before running out of breath? Well even if you're not a Habs fan, I bet the name Sergio Momesso is buried somewhere in your grey matter.

A native Montrealer, Momesso played left wing for the Canadiens in the '80s and now has his name emblazoned on two eateries on the island: the place known for its subs on Upper Lachine in NDG and, more recently, a West Island location in the Blue Haven strip mall on St. John Boulevard. Both spots showcase subs, but similarities end there. The look and clientele set the Momesso Caffé in the 'burbs apart from the original greasy spoon in NDG.

The Caffé is open for both lunch and dinner every day of the week. Appetizers range between $3.25-$10.25 and feature jalapeno poppers ($4.75), five jalapenos stuffed with oozing Cheez-Whiz-esque cheese and fried in batter. Watch your tongue though, these puppies come hot. Other appetizers include regular or large salads. The regular portion is huge and more than adequate for someone who's planning on eating a main course. Despite creamy goat cheese rosettes, the lampone salad seemed to lack a certain je-ne-sais-quoi - perhaps a few non-greens or a distinctive dressing recipe to give it more of a distinctive flavour. That said, the mixed leafy greens are noticeably fresh and crispy, unlike the old, limp discoloured lettuce rims you get in some joints.

On the carb-packed daily menu, you'll find paninis priced between $9.50-$11.50, 7-inch and 14-inch subs ranging from $3.25-$6.25, and make-your-own pizzas where you choose from four or five crusty bases ($3.25-$6.25), blank canvases to adorn with a selection of toppings (all under a buck) from mozzarella and goat cheese to mushrooms and pine nuts. If you wish, you can also dress up your plain-brown-paper tablecloth with crayon colours to occupy the space between courses.

Besides the regular menu, there's a "super special" dinner menu highlighting five different pasta selections priced between $10.95-$13.25, one of which is veg. The spaghetti paglia e fieno charetiera ($10.95) incorporates al dente spaghetti covered in olive oil with slices of garlic, flavourful basil and strips of Italian tomatoes with a julienne of yellow peppers, green shallots and freshly sliced zucchini. The al dente pasta is tasty, as it's permeated with wholesome chunks of those veggies and it's nice to actually be able to identify what it is you're eating. Keep in mind that the portions are hearty enough for an athlete, so make sure to leave some space for dessert at the end of the meal - possibly the best cannoli ($4.25) I've ever had. Ricotta, smooth, thick and sweet like custard, nestled in a fresh and delicious golden shell. Add a few chocolate chips to the filling and you're in heaven. When you're done savouring, you can wash the whole meal down with a cup of heavenly Segafredo coffee.

Autographs scribbled on the wall by coaches, refs and players, subtle hockey player silhouettes on the wall and paper placemats, and the hometown boy's framed likeness allude to his former profession without making the place look like La Cage. Habs fans fear not, you can enjoy eating out and watch the game in real time on two TVs hovering up above. If you're lucky, you may even be served by the man himself, who has been known to don an apron from time to time.

Momesso Caffe
ADDRESS: 3669 St-Jean N., on the West Island
(buses 201, 205, 206, 207, 218)
PHONE: 626-7177
HOURS: Mon-Thurs 11AM-11PM, Tues-Wed 11AM-10PM,
Fri-Sat 11AM-11:30PM, Sun 11:30AM-10PM
BEST FEATURES: Crispy greens, big chunks of fresh ingredients,
hearty portions, yummy cannoli and
delicious coffee, scribbling on tables with crayons.
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: Around $25 per person after tax & tip,
before excluding drinks
RATING: *** out of ****

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