by MARK SLUTSKY

Nonya began as a small, traditional Indonesian restaurant located on that particularly salty stretch of St-Laurent below Ste-Catherine, amidst the hot dogs and strip clubs. Not long after, the restaurant's owners (a family hailing from Indonesia's Java island) moved the place to Ste-Catherine, on the block facing the Paramount cinema. The eatery became Nonya Supperclub, and the menu was revised, offering a more complex (and expensive) take on Indonesian cuisine. But again, the location wasn't ideal - who thinks to look next to a Burger King and a Foot Locker for fine Indonesian dining? This year, they moved once again, hopefully for the last time, to Mile-End, occupying the space previously occupied by the late Franco-Iberian restaurant La Bastide.

Even if you've never tasted Indonesian cuisine before, it'll probably strike a familiar note, blending as it does the cuisines of the nation's hundreds of ethnicities, as well as the European influence of Dutch colonization.

The latter influence can be plainly seen in the menu's risjtaffels. The word is Dutch for "rice table," and what you get when you order one is pretty much a table of food, with over a dozen dishes delivered to your table, ranging from udang bakar (grilled shrimp) to serundeng (shredded coconut). Nonya offers three risjtaffels of increasing complexity, ranging from $35–$45 per person (a minimum of two diners are needed for an order).

They're a little pricey, sure, but there's plenty on the menu for eaters with less cash in their pockets. To start off, you might want to try the gado gado ($7), a classic Indonesian dish, a cold salad made with cabbage, potatoes, tempeh, green beans, tofu, eggs, tomatoes and spinach. The ingredients are fresh and tasty, and it's a nice way to whet your palate for the flavours to come. Also on the appetizer tip, the sate ayam ($6) is a simple dish of chicken satays, with a classic, beautiful tamarind and brown sugar sauce. The satays are small but perfect, cooked so tender they're almost fish-like. But maybe the most fascinating starter was the kroket ($6), a breaded mashed potato croquette (no surprise there) filled with ground beef, carrot, and celery. The kroket was amazingly sculpted into the form of a small pear, complete with deep-fried basil leaf at the top - it was both beautiful and delicious. Soups are also worth trying. If they're offering the soto ayam when you visit (it shows up sometimes on the table d'hôte), definitely check out this rich, zesty chicken soup.

The mains were no less impressive, much to my delight. The ayyam panggang bumbu rujak ($19) positively thrilled me. An entire Cornish hen baked in a red curry and served in a basket, it was served with a side of sautéed chayote (a green squash) and a small dish of kecap lombok, which may be one of my favourite things in the world. A thick sauce made with soya, it managed to hit the sweet, spicy, and savoury flavour notes simultaneously. Totally heavenly, and honestly, I could've drenched the entire hen in the stuff and been satisfied.

The sauce was also served with the amazing pepes ikan ($18), a filet of tilapia cooked with yellow curry and tomatoes in a banana leaf. It's a colourful (bright yellow dotted with little tomato halves), deeply flavourful dish and definitely a highlight. Less mind-blowing, but also worth trying, is the bakmi goreng ($13), a dish of egg noodles fried with chicken, shrimp and a smattering of veggies. It's definitely worth going in for if you're in the mood for a noodle dish - and the marinated shrimp were plump and delicious, though the whole may lack a bit of the razzle-dazzle of some of the other dishes.

Nonya's pleasant, subdued atmosphere (there's a lovely terrasse) and friendly, helpful service - plus of course the food - make it a very special place. Here's hoping it's finally found its home on Bernard.

Questions? Hot tips? Compliments to the chef? eattothebeat@gmail.com

Nonya
ADDRESS: 151 Bernard W. (at Waverly)
PHONE: 875-9998
HOURS: Tue-Sun 5–11 p.m.
BEST FEATURES: Anything that comes wrapped in a banana leaf, and the sweet and spicy kecap lombok sauce
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes (but no Interac)
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: $13–$35 per person, before wine, tax or tip
RATING: ***1/2 out of ****