by MATHILDE RABBAT

What better way to soothe that season-change-induced scratchy throat than with a steaming bowl of wonton soup? If you're fond of Chinese food and don't mind a little sweetness on the palate, you're going to love Chine Toque, located on the western end of Ste-Catherine, near Atwater metro.

With its clear chicken broth, bits of green onion, finely shredded cabbage and artfully fastened dumplings, said soup is a fine way to begin your feast. The chicken-stuffed wontons are a nice change from the porky ones, and accommodating to those who don't eat schwein. If you're in the mood for something more viscous and tart, though, try the hot and sour soup, which brings together tofu, green onion and mushroom slivers. (If you want the full flavour of the meal to come, mind you, wait a little while before you bring this potion to your lips because this place puts the heat in hot.) These two soups share the appetizer section of the menu along with options such as the Chinese vermicelli, vegetable, or seaweed and tofu - all priced between $3 and $4.25.

Sticking with starters, a Chinese meal without a roll is like an Italian dinner without noodles. You can get such rolls for under $4. The crispy and golden veggie roll is stuffed with the standard shredded cabbage, with the occasional carrot strip making an appearance. The star of this hors d'oeuvre though, is, without a doubt, the lemon-orange dipping sauce. Whether you dunk your roll in it or slather it on your sticky rice (under $2), this sauce will make you happy. Chicken dumplings are another starter option, but because of its overly sweet peanut sauce, I'd skip them and dive right into the mains.

Thankfully, the pepper chicken with crispy spinach ($13) caught my eye on the card. Strips of chicken are fried and coated with soy sauce and ground black pepper and crowned by deep green, crispy, translucent spinach leaves no thicker than a sheet of paper - totally fun to eat as they disintegrate on contact. Lap them up before they cool for maximum effect.

If dark meat strikes your fancy, the crispy sesame beef is worth sampling ($13). The dish is comprised of strips of beef, deep fried in batter, drizzled with a sweet sauce and sprinkled with sesame. Like magic, the super-fried meat somehow remains crispy, even though it's swimming in sauce. As you chew, you'll power through layer after layer of flavour.

Seafood lovers might be tempted to go for the brightly coloured Szechwan-style shrimp ($15), but here again, the battered shrimp are coated with a sauce that is a bit too sweet. A side dish of chopped baby bok choy, stir fried with mushrooms ($11), complements any dish nicely and provides an alternative to the sweetness of other plates.

All of the selections above were featured on a "chef's suggestions of the evening" menu, which appears alongside the standard offerings. These selections include a choice of two complete dinners for two hovering around the $30 or $40 mark. Whichever one you opt for, rest assured that you will not leave the joint hungry. There's barely enough room for the green tea and fortune cookie that cap off this culinary experience. My own suggestion to the chef would be to include just one sweet dish in the pre-set menu in order to calibrate the taste buds.

Empty plates are warmed before food is served, which is a nice touch. Other details include the decorative cutting of veggies, carrots and radishes made to look like roses, and cloth napkins folded into fan shapes. Overall, the resto provides an affordable yet refined alternative to the cheap dives in Chinatown and the ‘chi-chi' overpriced establishments in the downtown core.

Chine Toque
ADDRESS: 4050 Ste-Catherine W.
PHONE: 989-5999
HOURS: Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m. &
5:30–9:30 p.m.; Sat–Sun 5:30–10 p.m.
BEST FEATURES: Yummy orange-lemon sauce, pepper
chicken with crispy, melt-in-your mouth spinach
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: So so
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NON-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: $20 before drinks, tax and tip
RATING: *** out of ****