Getting ’ritzed

Biarritz serves an eclectic array of well-executed dishes perfect for sharing

Biarritz is a resort town on France’s Atlantic coast, and a popular destination for well-moneyed Gallic surfers. It’s also the name of a small, spartanly decorated restaurant in the Mile End. During a recent weeknight dinner at the latter, I found no evidence of any connection with the former. I did, however, find evidence of some rather good cooking. The menu at Biarritz is simple, listing precisely 25 items—10 under the rubric “petits” and the remaining 15 under “moyens.” All the dishes, which are eclectic in inspiration, are intended for sharing. For three of us, we initially ordered a couple of petits and a foursome of moyens. Biarritz’s compact wine list offers moderately priced bottles, mostly of French and Spanish origin. We did not recognize some of them and made inquiries with our waitress. She offered us samples and we were happy with our ultimate choice, a Saint-Véran Louis Jadot (a round, floral, unoaked chardonnay, in case you’re interested).

Our petit food items arrived fairly promptly. They included a fist-sized bowl of chicharrón, which is Spanish for fried pork ($3), and a set of three chicken and speck croquettes ($1 apiece). The pork was snow-white, unbelievably fluffy and crispy. With a gentle sprinkling of salt and Chinese five-spice powder, it made for a titillating, refined amuse-bouche—not exactly something I’d say about other pork rinds I’ve eaten.

The croquettes were nice, too—crunchy outside, moist and meaty on the inside. My friend Bernie initially lamented the absence of a dipping sauce but upon taking her first bite, she immediate­ly admitted that one wasn’t necessary.

The petits kept us occupied until the arrival of the first moyen, roasted cauliflower with pine nuts, blackcurrant raisins and anchovies ($10). This was another hit. The lightly browned florets had a pleasant crunch, and the sweetness of the raisins contrasted with the salty, umami kick from the anchovies. (Apparently, many customers ask Biarritz to hold the anchovies. Fools!)

Next came the grilled mackerel with radish salad ($12). Though the mackerel filet had been nicely grilled, the radish salad was much too delicate tasting to stand up to the mackerel’s robust, fishy flavour. Something spicier and more acidic would’ve been better.

The grilled quail with leeks and pistachio dressing ($10) was delivered as we finished off the cauliflower and fish. The bird itself had been un-mucked with—just seasoned and grilled. It was moist and flavourful on its own. The leeks and pistachios didn’t add much, but they didn’t detract either.

After just the right interval, the last member of our initial quartet of moyens arrived: pork belly confit with a caramel-like roasted garlic flavoured sauce and cubes of quince jam ($10). The fatty top layer of the belly was delightfully crispy, while the meaty middle layers were so tender they could easily be cut with a fork. The quince and the slightly sticky sauce complemented it very nicely.

We still had a bit of room so we decided to add the duck breast tacos ($14). My companions had been eyeing them earlier but I had vetoed them due to fatigue with newfangled fusion tacos. How wrong I was; these tacos were quite a delight! Each of our three fresh corn tortillas came smeared with a thick, robustly chilli-flavoured salsa laden with succulent slices of duck boob and a little pile of sweet pickled corn. Most enjoyable.

Though we hardly needed it, I could not resist ordering the vindaloo lamb ribs ($12) after peeping them on a neighbouring table. These were worth the abdominal distension—slow roasted to the point of falling right off the bone and smothered in a rich curry sauce. Yes please.

Despite reaching the third trimester of food pregnancy, it was difficult to refuse dessert after such a fine repast. We shared a delicious coffee panna cotta ($6), an unctuous coffee flavoured custard, a layer of dulce de leche at the bottom, and crunchy bits of (what seemed to be) coffee flavoured cookie on top. Nice. ■

COMMENTS? QUESTIONS? CULINARY.PROPAGANDA@GMAIL.COM

Short URL: http://www.montrealmirror.com/wp/?p=26757