Mommy dearest

Omma brings fresh, delicious Korean to Mile End

This is going to sound bad, but sometimes I’m relieved to see a restaurant close. I know that it’s more than just a failed business, that there are people who’ve lost their money and jobs, but this industry is harsh and not everyone is cut out to run a restaurant. (We’ve all seen Kitchen Nightmares and now I never want to eat in New Jersey.) But at the same time, closings create room for new beginnings.

Take, for example, Senzala, the Brazilian restaurant on the corner of Bernard and Esplanade. I disliked that place and I’m not afraid to say it. The food was terrible, the service slow and the only reason it stayed open was because of its primo location. When Senzala recently shut its doors, (they’ve opened a swankier version on Acadie) I was equally surprised and elated that a Korean restaurant, Omma, had taken its place.

Omma means mom in Korean, and the food is inspired by the chef and owner Mi kyum Kim’s home cooking. The restaurant’s been com­pletely revived with soft lighting, white walls and simple decorative accents. The waitresses wear cute, floral aprons and Kim, visible in the semi-open kitchen, is running the show. The menu complements the atmosphere and all the dishes sound fresh, light and very appeal­ing. The menu plainly states that there is no MSG in their dishes, and within the coming weeks they will have their alcohol permit.

I am no Korean food expert, so I brought along a friend who’s been to Korea several times to guide me. The menu has just enough choice to give a good selection without being overwhelming.

We started with the Korean pancake ($10–$12), dumplings ($6), deep-fried squid ($9) and chicken wings ($9). The pancake or pajun (vegetarian or seafood) is pan-fried, and made up of kimchi, chives, carrots and spring onions with a sesame-soy dipping sauce.

We went for the veggie pancake and although it was a bit dense, my dining companions seemed to like it. Personally, however, I thought it was too heavy and cloying. The side sauce added a fresh and salty element, as well as some hot sauce for extra kick.

The dumplings (steamed or fried, beef or veggie) came four to a serving with the same dipping sauce. We went with the fried beef; crispy on the outside, leading to a seasoned mixture of ground beef and chives. They really hit the spot.

The deep-fried squid with a chilli-lime sauce had a great outer crunch giving way to a clean texture. The sauce added a bit of citrus heat. The chicken wings, lightly breaded and marinated in sesame, hot sauce and sake, were very good—kind of like Korean fried chicken.

For mains we went with the classic bibimbap ($15), kimchi chigae, a pork rib stew ($19), sam bap gabbi ($19) and sam dak bulgogi ($18), bbq beef ribs and bbq chicken, respectively.

The bibimbap, (beef, chicken or tofu) is served in a hot stone bowl with rice, kimchi, pickled vegetables, sprouts, carrots, red chilli paste and a fried egg on top. We chose the beef, and it was delicious. The hot stone bowl made the rice crunchy and the whole mixture was spicy, flavourful and an all-around crowd pleaser.

The pork stew, in a hearty kimchi flavoured broth, was the perfect antidote for this weather. The rich meat fell off the bone and melted into the soupy mixture, which was served with rice. Both the bbq beef ribs and chicken were tasty and served on hot plates. They came with rice, kimchi and a combo of romaine lettuce and sesame leaves to make wraps, the latter being the most interesting, adding an aro­matic, minty flavour.

The beef ribs were sliced thinly across the bone and although a bit chewy, the texture worked to amplify the sesame marinade. The chicken had a sweet/spicy sauce that went nicely with the kimchi. As for the kimchi itself, it passed the test. With a bit of bite and crisp texture, it added that extra dimension to everything served.

Omma may have just opened, but I have high hopes. The staff is sweet, the food is solid and there are plenty more dishes I want to go back to try. It’s high time someone else give that corner spot a shot, and Korean food is an exciting addition to the neighbourhood. ■

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