by MATHILDE RABBAT

In a place like Berlin, where you'll find the largest concentration of Turks outside the motherland, you'd be hard pressed not to find a Turkish eatery of some sort within a stone's throw - kind of like what Mark Twain said about churches here years ago. Unfortunately this isn't the case in Montreal, though I did recently manage to uncover one in the lobby of an unassuming office building in Park Ex, a place called Restaurant Anatolien specializing in fine Turkish cuisine.

At first glance, the bland office building would seem like an unlikely location for a place with both good eats and atmosphere, but it all comes together somehow in this joint, which is named after the Asian part of Turkey.

Without a doubt, the feast at Anatolien should begin with the cigar borek ($5) or "cheese cigars," referred to as such for two reasons: (1) They're made with delicious fried white cheese interspersed with a leafy touch of parsley, and (2) a rolled shell tightly hugs the cheese producing a little golden cigar about the length of a finger. Upon frying, the thin envelope gets crispy and the feta it encapsulates becomes soft, warm and ever so yummy. This dish arrives with a few cigars lying on a bed of shredded romaine lettuce, flanked by sweet onion crescents and a couple of tomato wedges.

Main courses range from about $7-$17. With the exception of fish and some entrées, various permutations of meat preponderate, such as sujok (spicy sausages) and the ever-popular kebab of course. Two main dishes distinguish themselves for their simplicity and refinement. The ezmeli kebab Adana ($13.95) is composed of minced veal, hot red chilli, parsley and garlic. The kebab is first skewered, then grilled and presented on an oval bed of warm salsa composed of fresh tomatoes, grilled red pepper bits and parsley. Heaven. It is accompanied by a refreshing and tasty salad with cucumber, onion, shredded lettuce, parsley and tomato. The whole thing is simply seasoned with oil, salt and lemon juice.

Also of note is the ali nazik filet mignon ($16.95). A very interesting combination of eight grilled-to-perfection dark chunks of filet mignon floating in a thick, white sauce like lily pads in a pond. This concoction contains puréed eggplant, yogurt, garlic and parsley. Splotches of tomato sauce add a little splash of colour to the mixture, which is mild enough not to overpower the flavour of the meat. Any leftover sauce can be scooped up with the deliciously warm homemade bread that's served with main courses. Sprinkled with oregano and sesame seeds, it's a real treat. If you still have space, you can cap off the meal with some baklava, sütlac (rice pudding) or crème caramel, all priced under $5.

Though the joint covers a lot of tiled square footage, it somehow doesn't feel huge. The floor is divided into two sections, each equipped with its own giant screen. One area is for dining proper with a bar and another for snacks, coffee and tea. That's where you'll find an elevated, charming little platform strewn with colourful pillows as back rests - a perfect place to savour a strong Turkish tea in authentic little glasses. Whether neighbouring diners are just chilling glancing at the tube or playing a game of checkers or backgammon, the Middle Eastern favourite, the atmosphere is totally laid back. Turkish satellite TV provides updates on futbol, pop news, weather and futbol, followed by more futbol. But if you feel as though you're being watched, you actually sort of are; indigo glass eyes are mounted on the walls to ward off the evil eye.

Restaurant Anatolien
ADDRESS: 7101 Parc (near Jean-Talon)
PHONE: 270-3700
HOURS: 9 a.m. "until we need to be" (midnight-1 a.m. or so)
BEST FEATURES: The feta cigars and filet mignon with
eggplant and yogurt sauce are a hit, super service,
Turkish satellite TV
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Not particularly
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NON-SMOKING SECTION: Not really
PRICE: Around $25 per person before tax and tip
RATING: *** out of ****