by MATHILDE RABBAT

Bollywood movies sharing the marquees with Hollywood blockbusters, Punjabi beats surfacing in hip hop tracks and Wal-Mart peddling yoga mats are all sure signs that the Indian diaspora has now truly circled the globe. You'll probably agree, however, that India's best export is its spicy grub, which you'll find in all its glory at Restaurant Dev.

The joint's name is actually the short form of deva, deriving from the Sanskrit for "shining one," used to refer to Hindu gods, which is apt because the extensive menu offers up a feast large enough for the whole pantheon - even the vegetarian ones. Picture-menu placemats, the wide array of dishes and their relatively low impact on the budget make it hard to limit yourself to just a few choices. I suggest you start off with a mango lassi ($2.50), a scrumptious, phosphorescent mango shake served in a half-pint glass, to appease the hunger while you decide what you're in the mood for.

Appetizers priced at no more than $8 include the usual staples: daal soup, papadam and various samosas. Pakoras, including a more unusual fish pakora, also make up the appetizer lot. The naan ($1.50–$2.99) is a real hit. Interesting and well-executed permutations of the flavourful Indian bread abound: chicken naan, keema (beef), and garlic and spinach, my personal favourite. The latter, which also comes with the veggie thali platter, is served on a round dish and cut into quarters. The dough's just right, not too puffy and full of air, and there's a good mixture of butter, spinach, hot red peppers and cumin, a truly yummy combination.

Lamb, chicken, beef and shrimp, hovering around the $7 or $8 mark, make up the meaty dishes, typically fastened with veggies like potatoes, onions, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and spinach. Of note is the lamb saag ($7), served submerged in a very tasty spinach purée, darkly tinted by coriander. Vegetarian ($6) and non-veggie thali ($7) dishes provide you with the option to create your own dish by piecing together meat and/or vegetable curries - and who doesn't love to eat out of those round tin thali platters with those nifty little compartments? Priced at around $12, thali combos are totally affordable as they come with dessert and even include your choice of either wine or domestic or imported beer.

The vegetarian thali offers a choice of cauliflower, potato or spinach, along with eggplant, daal or chickpeas. Neighbouring compartments will contain a salad (shredded iceberg lettuce, raw red onion rings, a half-moon tomato and a mini slice of cucumber) and a small pool of thick refreshing yogurt to cool a hot palate - if you ask for your food spicy, that is. Also refreshing are the crunchy pickled carrot sticks, with tamarind overtones that add a vivid splash of colour to the palette and palate alike.

Having no doubt encountered many a customer with sensitive taste buds, your waitress will have inquired just how hot you like your food before submitting your order to the kitchen - not too spicy, medium or strong. Spices involve coriander, clove, turmeric, cardamom, cumin and red pepper.

Though flavours abound, I was slightly disappointed with the chickpeas in the vegetable thali. When certain dishes come standard as those in the thali platter, by the end of the day, some preparations, like the peas, are lukewarm and no longer at their freshest in either texture and taste. The same goes for the gulab jaman dessert, deep-fried doughy miniatures bathed in sweet syrup, a little too dense in consistency. Instead, grab a chocolate, pistachio, mango, pineapple, strawberry or coconut kulfi iced cream stick ($1) to satisfy your sweet tooth.

All in all, Dev has plenty of charming little quirks - and the fact that Indians actually eat there is never a bad sign.

Restaurant Dev
ADDRESS: 5997 Victoria (corner Linton)
PHONE: 733-5353
HOURS: Open everyday, except Tuesdays, from 11 a.m.–10 p.m.
BEST FEATURES: Kitschy Indian place that whips up a
delish mango lassi and amazing spinach naan, easy on
the budget, very friendly service.
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Cash only
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: $15 a head, everything included
RATING: **1/2 out of ****