by MATHILDE RABBAT

Sushi joints have been spreading like wildfire over the past few years, usurping the spots where short-lived soup and noodle places once stood and almost hoisting maki and sashimi into food-group status. But what of the other delicious offerings at sushi places? The journey of rediscovery begins at Hinodé, which sits at the meeting point of the Plateau and Mile-End, at the foot of Mount Royal on Parc - somehow fitting, given the mountain's stature in the Land of the Rising Sun.

You can't go wrong with the classic dashi miso soup ($2.95), with its typically murky and flavourful soybean broth filled with chopped green onion, slivers of seaweed and tofu morcels. The yako ika entrée ($6.75), comprised of two onion rings crowning a small stack of strips of octopus and a red pepper square fried tempura style, gets points for presentation. The batter's crispy, golden skin is nice and thin, and the texture of the octopus was bang on - none of that overcooking that so often produces rubbery meat - though it could use a touch more flavour.

Should your appetite or your budget only allow you but one choice from the menu, the Zen salad ($5.95) should, without a doubt, be that thing. It's flawless in appearance, taste… in everything really. Just the right amount of soya and sesame dressing is drizzled over a mound of mixed greens and shredded papaya. These are topped with a wreath of perfectly ripe, melt-in-your-mouth avocado wedges, little half moons forming a celestial ring around leaves of varying shades and shapes. Black and white sesame seeds, and crunchy pale yellow and deep red Japanese marinated cucumbers top the entire concoction and lend a nice touch of tangy pizzazz to the salad, as much a treat for the eyes as it is for the tastebuds.

When it comes to the main courses, usually priced between $10–$24, the less-is-more mentality should prevail. Both the veggie teriyaki ($9.95) and the sirloin ($15.95) mains, which are accompanied by a bowl of steamed rice, could do with some adjusting when it comes to quantity; portions should be really pared down a little. In the case of the veggie teriyaki, you'd be hard pressed to find a vegetable that isn't in there: green, yellow, and red peppers, zucchini, broccoli, string beans, cauliflower, mushrooms, sprouts etc. You can eat and eat and eat without ever seeing the bottom of your sizzling hot plate emerge. Large, deep fried, gelatinous tofu moulded into triangular prisms, drizzled with a sweet and spicy black bean sauce, form the highlight of the dish. Likewise, the star of the sirloin teriyaki is not the heap of shoestring carrots or sprouts it lies atop, but rather the tender beef itself, cooked to perfection and sliced into chopstick friendly strips.

If a case of indecision has you perplexed as to what to choose from the main menu, the table d'hôte suggests three possible dinner combos ($22.95–$37.95) that include everything from the entrée to the dessert. Soups, salads and tempura mixes act as appetizers while chicken, salmon, shrimp or beef main courses prevail, some flambéed, some done up teriyaki style. If you're still a stickler for sushi and sashimi, you will find several manifestations that you can either enjoy at the bar, at a table clothed in white linens or under the covered terrace, which is nice, rain or shine. Only free for lunch? Specials (all under $14), which are served with a choice of soup or salad, feature sushi and maki rolls as well as hot dishes.

Hinodé
ADDRESS: 4525 Parc (just north of Mount Royal)
PHONE: 849-9778
HOURS: Mon–Thurs 11:30AM–2PM & 5–10PM; Fri 11:30AM–2PM
& 5–11pm; Sat 5–11pm; Sun 5–10pm
BEST FEATURES: The Zen salad is amazing, covered terrace,
non-intrusive service, and soothing atmosphere
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: A ramp leads you into the eatery
but the washroom's too tight for a chair
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: $20–$25 before drinks & tip
RATING: *** out of ****