by MATHILDE RABBAT

The less-is-more principle doesn't always apply so readily to food, but Ville Saint-Laurent's Ban-Lao Thai makes it work wonders. Throughout their huge selection, authenticity and simplicity govern to produce delicious Thai and Laotian specialities.

Menus donning pictures of women with pressed palms in a show of reverence beckon you to sample the South-East Asian delicacies within. Tabletops lined with batiks harbour the requisite supply of plastic chopsticks, soya and fish sauces, and that ever-so-spicy thick red stuff. If the weather's nice the large terrasse provides a great setting in which to peruse the 89 selections available to eat.

Appetizers, such as Thai fish paste and egg rolls, are all affordably priced at either $2.50 or $3. One notable treat is the fresh spring rolls ($2.50). Thin, elastic, translucent sheets snugly envelop a crunchy filling made up of such ingredients as shredded cabbage, carrot and cilantro. You can dunk the little critter in a tangy peanut sauce where nutty little morsels float about… so good. It's a real bonus as well that the sauce isn't too sweet, nor thick and sloppy like warm peanut butter - something you'll find in many joints.

A huge selection of main dishes with rice, which all hover between the $5 and $7 mark, incorporate pork, chicken, beef and, of course, seafood - a staple of Thai and Laotian cooking. Depending on your selection, these mains may be sautéed with veggies, bathed in sweet-and-sour or spicy sauces and seasoned with Thai basil, lime leaves, citronella, ginger or yellow or red curry. You'll also find several permutations of Thai noodle dishes, featuring a pad Thai and a variety of soups, which will set you back no more than $8.

As for Laotian dishes, the calamari salad ($8) is sure to be a hit with fans of the hot and the spicy. In a display of kitchen dexterity, the calamari is sliced in a chequered diamond pattern so that it rolls on itself, making it look like little frilly white grenades seasoned with red pepper, sprouts and lots of ginger.

If you'd prefer to let the menu do the choosing for you, an insert provides a choice of three combos priced under $15. All offer a little bowl of sticky rice and a choice between imperial egg rolls or various soups: chicken tom yum, or chicken or beef Tonkinese varieties. A combo will typically feature a meaty main dish, such as grilled chicken with lemongrass, grilled beef or Laotian-style sausages. The grilled chicken, lightly marinated in a sweet soya sauce, packs a lot of flavour, even though it's served lukewarm and is very simply prepared. Strips of poultry lie atop a bed of lettuce that it shares with a few decorative slices of cucumber. Though authentic, the papaya salad ($7), which may also appear in combos, might not be so popular. The fruit is thinly shredded into tiny shoestrings and marinated in a lingering and rather overpowering fishy vinaigrette.

You can also sample the dessert of the day and coffee or tea as part of the combo. The jasmine green tea is particularly refreshing, as it cools a hot palate. Coffee drinkers who seek to extinguish the five alarm fires in their traps can opt for a yummy Thai iced coffee from the regular menu ($2.50). As a special treat to cap off your meal, inquire about the dessert of the day ($2 if not part of the combo). If you're lucky, you'll visit on warm-coconut-rice-cake day, a small rice and coconut patty accompanied by a fresh oval slice of sweet mango. The taste is subtle, but simply delicious.

Ban Lao-Thai
ADDRESS: 930 Décarie (corner Édouard-Laurin), Ville
Saint-Laurent (du Collège metro)
PHONE: 747-4805
HOURS: Mon–Wed 11am–8pm; Thurs–Sat 11am–9pm; closed Sunday
BEST FEATURES: Simplicity of dishes, spring rolls with a delish peanut sauce, spicy calamari, warm rice cake dessert
ALCOHOL: No
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, but the bathroom's tiny
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Not particularly
CREDIT CARDS: Cash only
NON-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: $20 per person after tax & tip
RATING: *** out of ****