by MARK SLUTSKY

One of Montreal's most celebrated eateries, Milos may serve up some of the city's tastiest Greek eats, but eating at the restaurant (which recently expanded to New York) carries a high price - namely, its high prices. Not too long ago, through, Milos produced an offspring a block up the street in an old bank on Parc. Petit Milos is one of those fancy-schmancy food boutique places, selling pricey jarred condiments, cookies, bottles of sauces and oils (they have a trademark "My Sister's Olive Oil"), and fresh cheeses. It's not dissimilar to Latina on St-Viateur, just down the street.

Like Latina, they've also got a lunch counter, which offers tasty prepared eats at very reasonable prices - worth checking out even if you're not in the market for ritzy pastas and spreads. It's a great option for take-out or, if you like, you can sit down and watch the passing scene through big picture windows. The dining section is quite pleasant for what's essentially a store, with handsome wooden tables and white tablecloths.

Petit Milos offers a bunch of different hot items, and you can mix-and-match a bit with the side dishes. Most offer rice, pasta or roast potatoes (which are terrific) with the main dish. With prices in the $7–$10 range, they're a good way to go if you're in the area and looking for lunch.

There's the very tasty moussaka ($10), which has a sweet edge to it. Also a little sweet is the stifado ($11.50), a lamb stew spiced with cinnamon. The lamb is tender and takes the seasoning very well. In the same vein is the chicken kapama ($7), also cinnamon-flavoured and equally supple. If you're in the mood for non-stewed poultry, try the chicken leg ($7.50), grilled with olive oil, oregano, and lemon - this dish goes particularly well with the potatoes.

Made with garlic and cumin, the Smyrna meatballs ($7) are served in a tasty tomato and onion sauce, and these you'll probably want to try with the pasta or rice. For the high rollers, Petit Milos also offers tasty crab cakes ($19), and a couple of fish dishes and vegetable stews are available too. Don't miss out on the savoury pastries either - you can get the spinach spanakopita (or cheese tyropita) in pie form, or in little spring roll-like tubes (though I found these to be a little on the dull side).

There's also a decent variety of sandwiches available for those who favour portability: the St-Viateur standard smoked salmon ($4.50), grilled vegetables ($4.75), basil, feta and tomato ($5), roast lamb ($10.50), and the grilled "tuna burger" ($12), one of the place's specialties.

You're also well advised to look behind the counter and try some of the delicacies there, which range in price from $3–$8. There's a wide selection of marinated delights, like the huge, swollen shrimp in olive oil, octopus, scallops or feta cheese, all of which are quite yummy. Vegetables abound, like the many-coloured grilled peppers; a lot of these are sold by weight, so you can mix and match. Among the salads there's only one thing really missing, that being a "classic" Greek salad made with feta, tomato, olives, and the like - it's kind of a weird exception, and a dish that'd really be welcome.

That said, Petit Milos does represent well in the Greek spread department. They offer all the standards, though you'd be well-advised, if you're hungry, to go with the pikilia ($8.50), a plate featuring various Greek dipping sauces, feta cheese, and fresh bread. The skordalia is particularly delicious, if deceptively so: behind its dull grey exterior is a blend of garlic, almonds, olive oil, and potatoes that's rather addictive. The two other classic Greek dips - zesty tzatziki, and the carp-roe-based taramosalata - also hit the spot.

Petit Milos
ADDRESS: 5551 du Parc (corner of St-Viateur)
PHONE: 274-9991
HOURS: Weekdays 10AM–8PM; Weekends 10AM–7PM
BEST FEATURES: Take-out with style, and
lots of fresh stuff to choose from
ALCOHOL: No
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: $7–$20 per person, more if you
really want to feast
RATING: *** out of ****