by MATHILDE RABBAT

Though many are familiar with a Greek resto called Lezvos on Mont-Royal E., few people are aware of its newer west-end sibling, opened about a year ago on Décarie, just south of Monkland.

The selection at Lezvos West is simple, taking up just one side of the laminated menu card. Before you even have a peek at it though, indulge in a little ouzo apéritif, served either straight (my personal fave) or on the rocks, an enticing precursor to the Mediterranean delicacies that follow. And while you peruse the menu you can nosh on the classic Med starter of grilled bread slices swirled around in olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Indeed, the small stuff can be the best part of Greek cuisine, and at Lezvos West, each table is encouraged to share a variety of dishes, which is great for those of you who, like me, like to sample as many choices as possible when you eat out.

The resto offers hot and cold appetizers ranging from $4.95–$11.95. The cold variety includes dolmadakia ($5.95), stuffed grape leaves served with tzatziki and quarters of lemon. As for the hot, the spanakopita and the assorted platter are certainly worth a taste. Spanakopita, triangular filo formations stuffed with creamy cheese and spinach, are a real treat. The assortment platter of warm appetizers ($11.95) is packed with flavour and includes grilled slices of veggies - mainly eggplant, zucchini, red pepper, sweet onion and oyster mushrooms. If a Greek salad is what you fancy, they range from $4.95–$11.95 and can be prepared to suit one or two. Nothing on the card, however, is etched in stone, as the very accommodating all-male staff is willing to whip up just about any combo of appetizers you fancy.

Main courses are served with gigantic tender lima beans and a very simple concoction of rice interspersed with slivers of carrot and string beans. While veal ($22.95), charcoal-broiled chicken ($10.95) and lamb chops ($4.95 each) are included in the offerings, grilled seafood is much more prominently featured on the menu at Lezvos West. You're actually given the opportunity to inspect the merchandise before it's prepared, putting the see in seafood(!). This is a nice touch that helps in the selection process; red snapper, jumbo shrimp, lobster and other creatures of the depths are displayed on a circular platter as your waiter proudly points to them while explaining how each is prepared. The grilled octopus, blackened on one side by the grill, seems to be a crowd-pleaser and is presented with red-onion ringlets, capers and slices of red pepper. Perfectly browned potato medallions sprinkled with parmesan and small bits of feta are heavenly and provide a very nice à côté to any dish.

Along with certain other items, desserts do not appear on the menu. So make sure to leave room for the absolutely scrumptious loukoumades, little golden spheres of dough, served warm, drizzled in translucent honey and sprinkled with cinnamon powder - very delicious.

The food makes up for the tranquil yet somehow uninspiring décor. The colour palette includes subdued beiges, burgundies and charcoal blues on high-back chairs and sectional wall panels. A few still-life paintings hang in the backdrop and some dark wood pieces as well as sheer curtains frame the room. You'll find your run-of-the-mill standard, square tables, some even set for three for ménages of the same size, but what's really nice is the presence of larger round tables, more conducive to dinner with conversation. Valet parking, and a cloakroom give the place a slightly chi-chi air, but the food is definitely the centrepiece at this place.

Lezvos West
ADDRESS: 4235A Décarie (south of Monkland)
PHONE: 484-0400
HOURS: Mon–Thurs 6–10PM; Fri–Sat 5:30–11PM (Closed Sundays)
BEST FEATURES: Yummy ouzo, potato medallions and loukoumades, dessert served in a pond of honey.
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes, no debit though
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: $25 per person before tax & tip
RATING: *** out of ****