by MATHILDE RABBAT

It's no secret that for years fast food joints have been using bright, irritating colours to draw you in and whisk you out as fast as possible, making room for the next paying customer. Nocochi, a new little eatery on the edge of Concordia's downtown campus, does the exact opposite, standing in sharp contrast to most other quick-eat student haunts in the area. Simplicity is the name of the game at this place; it's not colour but the lack of it that grabs your attention.

The space that now houses Nocochi used to be an art store, with a clutter of paintings and frames visible through the front window. When the café owner took hold of it, windows were enlarged to accommodate patio doors, and the interior was overhauled to give it a bright, sleek and angular feel.

Just about everything in the new establishment is white, which in conventional wisdom emphasizes purity, illuminates thought and provides clarity. What better hang out for the cerebral student? Though there's some sparse non-black-and-white artwork depicting Montreal metro scenes, the pieces follow the angular patterns set by the rest of the eatery.

At first all this white creates an intimidating, uninviting feel. What initially pulled me in were the bizarre little uniformly shaped pastries displayed in the window - tiny building blocks in geometrical formations displayed on clear glass shelves.

With ingredients such as pistachio, walnut, white and dark chocolate and apricot jam, Nocochi's pastries combine traditional Persian elements with a touch of innovation. The title tart "Nocochi" is spiked with cardamom and made with roasted chickpea powder, which makes for an interesting texture that melts away the moment it hits the tongue - simply delicious. Other attractive miniature pastries that resemble little jewels can be purchased from a glass display case near the register.

Nocochi also does lunch, and in a way that carries over the minimalist trend from the décor to the food. The Mediterranean-inspired menu lists a series of pizzas and sandwiches incorporating simple, wholesome ingredients. Pizzas are made with fluffy dough and a selection of toppings, including red and yellow peppers, tomatoes, black olives, mozzarella and portobello and porcini mushrooms. They're all priced under $7 and carry Italian names such as the Pizza ai Peperoni Rossi, Pizza Margherita, Pizza Romano and the Pizza ai Funghi ($6.95), which is particularly tasty. The only pizza with meat is the Romano; it's topped with prosciutto. Otherwise, all the pies are light and vegetarian-friendly.

Keeping with the Mediterranean feel, sandwiches typically contain ingredients mentioned above, and most can be served on either baguette or pita. The Primavera ($5.95) is a tasty mix of lettuce, tomatoes, sweet peppers, basil, olives and mozzarella. The Portobello ($6.95) with its mushrooms, tomato and basil is also good. For those who like a little poultry between their bread, there's the Turkey sandwich garnished with tomatoes, lettuce and sweet peppers ($5.95). Other sandwiches come stuffed with prosciutto and artichokes, another with egg salad, green peas and dill pickles, or with feta, cucumber and onions.

These sandwiches are so simple, you get the sense you could whip them up yourself at home. This isn't a necessarily bad thing, though, since finding affordable non-junk food downtown can be a difficult endeavour. And like the pizza, the sandwiches won't set you back more than $7, and all of the prices on the menu include taxes.

Nocochi looks like a stylish boutique more than an eatery. The pastries, the dishes and the people act as displays in the window. They're the accessories in the space, adding splashes of colour to the sparse decoration. Ultimately, at Nocochi one is forced to focus on the food - because, quite simply, there isn't a whole lot more to look at.

Nocochi
ADDRESS: 2156 Mackay (corner Sherbrooke)
PHONE: 989-7514
HOURS: Mon-Fri 9AM-9PM; Sat-Sun 9AM-8PM
BEST FEATURES: Simplicity of dishes, yummy pastries
and minimalist décor
ALCOHOL: No
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: No, just cash and Interac
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: Meal (including coffee,
cappuccino or latté): $10; pastries $5.75-$18.75,
depending on weight
RATING: **1/2 out of ****