by MATHILDE RABBAT

When you think martini, what likely comes to mind are those stylish glasses, olives skewered by tiny spears and the “shaken, not stirred” line—but probably not tapas. Tapas and martinis share centre stage, though, at Tribeca, a new eatery in the Monkland village that uses the combo to full advantage, tickling the taste buds in so many different ways.

According to its menu, Tribeca is based on a “modern day tapas” concept that reflects the cultural diversity of the city. With items ranging from gazpacho and carpaccio to couscous, this idea finds expression in small, colourful dishes inspired by various international cuisines. The space itself is also small, with a bar alongside a few tables and chairs and an understated décor with blue and orange halogens dangling overhead. Sliding doors open up onto a terrasse where you can enjoy your pickings on warmer days while listening to jazzy riffs, Latin lounge, trip hop or Middle-Eastern beats, showing that the resto’s fusion theme extends beyond cuisine to the music they play.

Tribeca has a fairly extensive wine list with Australian, Italian, American and Spanish varieties ($32–$98), but who needs wine when you’ve got over two dozen martinis to choose from, all priced under $10? The martini card lists the contents of each blend and features names ranging from the ever-popular Cosmopolitan to other concoctions such as the Metro Mojito, the Moroccan Margarita, the Lust for Life, and the Sexier on the Beach. Some of the more aromatic martinis may satisfy your craving for white or dark chocolate, or quench your thirst with fruity potions like the lychee or big apple martinis. Of special note is the Epicurious, in which fine spiral strings of orange rind are suspended in a sweetened solution of lemon vodka and pomegranate juice ($7.50).

Once the martinis have been served, a breadbasket with oblong slices of the olive, cheese and French varieties acts as a precursor to the meal. The main menu offers a selection of soups, salads, hot vegetarian tapas, poultry and meat tapas, and seafood tapas. The grilled octopus salad ($10) and the grilled shrimp salad ($12) are both quite flavourful. The octopus is well prepared, without the rubbery, super-ball texture that we find in some establishments. A tarragon dressing coats the shrimp salad, also composed of ripe avocado, tomatoes and roasted bell pepper. As for the vegetable dishes, the sautéed rapini with bocconcini and roasted garlic is easily surpassed by the artichoke, spinach and gorgonzola étouffée ($8), a thick and delicious greenish dip, served warm, with which to lather little slices of grilled bread.

When it comes to Tribeca’s meat tapas, the peppered beef satays, where small beef brochettes cooked in a port wine reduction rest on tiny, crispy risotto cakes, are tender and very tasty ($12). The Yukon gold crushed potatoes melt in your mouth without being sickeningly sweet or overpowered by their maple syrup and fresh-butter-with-roasted-garlic infusion ($5).

At first glance, the portions may appear small, but don’t let these miniatures fool you. Two or three tapas dishes per person, especially after a couple of martinis, are more than enough to fill you up. Make sure to leave some room for dessert though. The white chocolate cheesecake is sinfully delicious, even for those who prefer the dark variety. Also worth sampling is the yummy and refreshing mango yogourt dip that accompanies the fresh fruit platter, featuring slices of orange, watermelon, honeydew, cantaloupe, mango, grapes and berries ($7). If your sweet tooth still can’t get enough, try the generous portion of French vanilla ice cream topped with a spicy honey coulis and served with blueberries ($6).

TRIBECA
ADDRESS: 5557 Monkland
PHONE: 223-1411
HOURS: Bar is open from 4PM daily; kitchen is open Sun–Thurs 5–11PM; Sat–Sun 5PM-midnight
BEST FEATURES: Creative dishes and vast selection of martinis
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes, no Interac though
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: Full meal $40–$50 per person, including the martini
RATING: *** out of ****