by MARK SLUTSKY

Nightlife impresarios the Holder brothers have been responsible for some of Montreal's most storied pleasure palaces, counting among them nightclub Business, poolhall/hotspot Le Swimming and Le Sugar, which you may know from its infamous statues. Another feather has been added to their cap this year with the opening of the eponymous Brasserie Holder, located among the high-falutin nightspots and stately old buildings of Old Montreal artery, rue McGill.

Situated in what was once an old Bank of Montreal, Holder's design makes good use of its high ceilings and wide open space. Along one wall, tall windows face out onto McGill, and straddling the opposite end of the room is a long bar, with an area for more informal drinking and eating (the bar menu offers tartines of various sorts - avocado, cheese, salmon - as well as bruschetta, fries and other such snackables). On our recent visit, my pal and I sat at the bar and had a drink before we moved to the dining area. We were impressed by the counter itself, plated in copper, which played nicely to the general tan and dark wood colours dominating the room. The martini wasn't bad, either.

After our drinks we moved to our table in the middle of the room, where we were immediately attended on by a very friendly waitress. This is probably a good place to mention how very welcoming and pleasant the Holder's staff are - they really added a lot to the dining experience.

Poring over our menus, we noticed an unusual item in the appetizer column. It wasn't the food itself that was unusual, fried saganaki cheese, but rather the way it was priced. The dish was $9.50, or $12.50 "with shooter of ouzo." Well, how could we resist? When the dish came, it was, as promised, a large rectangular slab of fried Greek cheese with a shot of ouzo alongside, and in my ignorance I figured I was meant to down the liquor and quickly eat a piece of cheese. Silly me. An attentive waiter caught me in mid-gaffe and poured the ouzo right on to the cheese, which he then promptly set alight, squeezing a lemon over the flaming plate. The already-cooked cheese was thus given an extra burnt, crispy edge. The result was rich and rather decadent, if a little salty for my taste.

We also shared another starter, a green salad with parmesan flakes, pancetta chips and preserved tomato petals ($8.50). A light vinaigrette gave the leaves a pleasant sweetness, but the real stars of the show were the petals, skinless, thinly sliced tomatoes marinated in olive oil. The two flavours merged into one heck of a harmonious whole, with the tomato taste front and centre, and the olive oil giving the petals a savoury undercurrent.

According to the waitress, the grilled beefsteak ($15) is one of Holder's most popular dishes, so my friend went for that. Served with a side of buttered French green beans (fries are also an option), the meat was tender, almost light, and served with a dark wine sauce. Macadamia nuts were mixed in with the beans, which were bright and fresh.

I chose the fresh steamed clams ($16), which were offered with a choice of either a lemon or marinière sauce. I went for the marinière, made with white wine, and didn't regret it. The clams were served in classic style, in a large, pre-warmed bowl, with that special long clam-fork you use to pull the meat out of their shells. The sauce was exceptional - almost elegantly thin and smooth. And, of course, a plate of frites (which were a little flat-tasting) and mayo accompanied the shellfish.

We experienced a great feeling of satisfaction at the conclusion of the meal (which we ended with a nice, if not great, bowl of assorted sorbets, $7.75). They treat ya right at Holder, and the prices are very reasonable; it's a very welcome addition to Old Montreal resto circuit.

Holder
ADDRESS: 407 McGill
PHONE: 849-0333
HOURS: Mon–Wed, 11:30AM–11PM; Thu–Fri, 11:30AM–midnight; Sat–Sun, 5:30PM–midnight
BEST FEATURES: Attentive, friendly staff and sumptuous eats
ALCOHOL: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Big flight of stairs
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: $20–$30 per person before tip, booze
RATING: *** out of ****