by MATHILDE RABBAT

Ever taken a stroll down Mont-Royal, near the corner of Mentana, and noticed a big green Buddha on the side of a building? That statue calmly leaning against the brick, in sharp contrast to the petrol station next door, marks the spot where you’ll find Tampopo, just a few blocks away from the Mont- Royal metro station.

If the name Tampopo seems familiar it may be because you’ve seen the funny Asian flick of the same name, which is about competing restaurants seeking to outdo each other as they strive for culinary greatness. The restaurant’s owners were inspired to open the little place a few years ago after an enlightening trip to Asia.

The Oriental influence extends from the front awning, where red paper lanterns hover, to the whole interior. Inside, disposable napkins yield to more environmentally friendly heated white towels that rest in small, woven cradles. You may choose to eat your meal on little stools at a curvy counter or à la japonaise - on a small, elevated platform at a low table while sitting on large mats on the floor. (A word to the wise, the latter option requires you to go shoeless, so you might want to check for holes in your socks before leaving your pad.)

To whet the appetite, all of Tampopo’s dishes are preceded by a tiny but tasty portion of vermicelli noodles and strips of crab, soaked in tangy sweet vinaigrette and sprinkled with finely sliced green onion. Appetizers, ranging from $2.50–$5, include Chinese beef or vegetable dumplings, wonton soups and a very nice miso soup served in a Japanese-style bowl.

The main menu features Vietnamese and Japanese soup meals, and regular dishes, such as Thaistyle noodle dishes, all of which hover around the $7 mark. Of special note is the yaki soba ($7.50) in which a dark, sweet sauce with a hint of ginger drapes a hearty portion of egg noodles with a variety of sautéed vegetables featuring chop suey, snowpeas, baby corn, mushrooms, celery, broccoli, green and red peppers and small bits of carrot. For those without a sweet tooth for main dishes, there are other selections, such as the Cantonese chow mein with shrimp, for example.

Steam and sizzle rise from behind the counter as you watch your order being prepared in one of two giant steamy woks. Compartmentalized veggie ingredients also sit in plain view waiting to be tossed and cooked before your eyes. Once in awhile, you’ll also catch the cook sampling the wok’s contents to calibrate your order. The menu makes provisions for modifications or little extras added to dishes, like shrimp, tofu or peanut sauce, which won’t increase your tab by more than $2.50. Japanese favourites, Sapporo and sake, are also available to help wash your main course down.

To cap off your meal, you may want to sample one of Tampopo’s desserts, well priced at no more than $3: ice cream of the sort you’d find in Japanese restos (green tea, mango and ginger) or sweet almond tofu. I, however, recommend the lychee nuts ($2.50), little refreshing blossoms resting in a tiny pond of sweet syrup.

Taxes are included in the menu’s prices, which simplifies things when it comes to settling up at the cash, and the service is friendly without being invasive. Flowing curtains, soothing warm colours, the sounds of an oriental flute and a large, mounted dragon create a pleasant, even calming atmosphere in which to enjoy lunch or dinner.

TAMPOPO
ADDRESS: 4449 Mentana (Mont- Royal metro)
PHONE: 526-0001
HOURS: Open everyday of the week from 11:00AM–11:00PM (except for special holidays)
BEST FEATURES: Soothing, Orient-inspired interior with floor seating, affordable food and friendly service
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Visa, MasterCard and debit
NON-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: Full meal $15–$18 per person including tax and tip
RATING: *** out of ****