by MATHILDE RABBAT

They say you should never go shopping for groceries on an empty stomach. This is a non-issue for at least one place in town, which conveniently doubles as a grocery store and an eatery.

Marché Kei Phat is a supermarket located near the Métropolitain that sells both North American and Asian food products, as well as other Southeast Asian goods. What makes a trip to this out-of-the-way location worthwhile is the resto area comfortably nestled in the market itself. Aisle 1 has been widened to accommodate a few modest tables and red vinyl chairs, and counter shelving is all that separates the diner from bags of rice, Asian packaged goods and all the other groceries that line the store's shelves. By North American standards, this format is unconventional, but the concept is common in Asia, lending a certain measure of authenticity to the meal.

Kei Phat's atmosphere is, well, that of a grocery store, complete with neon lighting, squeaking grocery cart wheels and the occasional passer-by browsing through the aisles to inspect potential purchases. The store is also part fish market - there are aquariums and a fishy smell hangs in the air, though the tanks are located near the rear of the store, on the opposite end of the eating area. Other surprises can be found at the back of the store this time of year, such as live turtles. If you prefer your food in a prepared state you should probably stick to the resto area.

The menu is a composite of Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai dishes. Fish and seafood in general are components of many of the dishes, which are prepared on the premises in a narrow kitchen adjacent to the dining area. Prices fall reasonably between $6–$9, and the resto does takeout too for those on the go. Worth sampling, even for those who aren't big fish eaters, is the tasty fish soup made with big fat meaty chunks of melt-in-your-mouth white fish. So is the delicious tender shrimp dish sautéed in ginger. For those fond of Thai-style salads, the papaya salad made with crunchy yellow papaya and little bits of shellfish, sprinkled with a zesty light vinaigrette is also flavourful.

Diners are given aromatic iced green tea to savour with the meal instead of the usual resto brain-freeze water, which is a nice touch. For those who aren't particularly fond of seafood, or who would like extra dishes to compliment seafood main courses, more familiar Asian favourites such as beef, seafood and egg soups, steamed and fried rice, vegetable stir fries and other pork, beef and poultry dishes also grace the picture menu. The menu isn't too vegetarian-friendly, but it does contain a selection of vegetable side dishes.

On the liquid side of things, not to be missed is the addictive Vietnamese cold coffee, a great way to cap off the meal in anticipation of a post-dinner shopping frenzy. It's served in a tall glass on ice and the coffee to sweet-and-condensed milk ratio is perfectly calibrated. It's next to impossible to have just one.

Kei Phat's setting may not be tantamount to a candlelight dinner in a quaint little resto, but it does make for a very tasty and different dining experience, and you can pick up a pack of ginger candies, seaweed sheets, gunpowder green tea or a portrait of your favourite Chinese master on your way out.

Marché Kei Phat
Address: 4215 Jarry E. (Jarry metro, bus 193 east), St-Léonard
Phone: 376-5749
Hours: 10am–9pm daily
Best features: Unique dining experience in a supermarket setting, fantastic cold coffee drink
Alcohol: Yes
Vegetarian friendly: Fish or vegetable side dishes
Credit cards: Cash or Interac only
Wheelchair access: Yes
Price: $15/person before tax or tip
Rating: *** out of ****