by SARAH MUSGRAVE

What do Japan, Lebanon and Scotland have in common? Not a whole lot really! In fact, what the following good-value restaurants from those locales do showcase is just how differently seafood is prepared, whether it’s reeled in from oceans east or west, or the Mediterranean Sea.

La Sirène de la mer

This family-style seafood emporium could be described as Red Lobster with a Middle Eastern twist. Freshness is built-in here: you can point and pick your catch from display cases in the attached poissonerie of the same name, then complement it with excellent Lebanese specialties. La Sirène’s huge selection of appetizers includes homey dishes like foul (fava beans), Armenian sausage and a fresh fatouche salad of juicy tomatoes, cucumbers, toasted pita and mint in a lemon-thyme dressing. The grilled octopus starter with olive oil, lemon and garlic, perfect in taste and texture, is worth sharing. Kebbe boulettes are cracked-wheat pockets stuffed with savoury ground beef, spices, onion and pine nuts - not to be confused with kebbe nayeh, a beef tartare treat. Main courses - grilled shrimp, Atlantic salmon or anything else that swims - are simple, fresh and well prepared. Finish off with exotic Middle Eastern desserts like rose-water-infused mouhalabieh pudding in a parfait glass or halawat cheese rolls with nuts and sweet syrup.

Address: 114 Dresden, Phone: 345-0345, Hours: Tues–Fri 11:30am–10pm; Sat noon–11pm; Sun–Mon 11:30am-9:30pm, Price: $22/person without tax, drinks or tip

Isakaya

There are many authentic dishes from the Pacific to sample at this popular Japanese bistro if you look past more familiar offerings like sushi, teriyaki and noodles. Instead, opt for pub-style fare from the Japanese-only section of the menu, small plates that are perfect for munching over beer. Start with lightly salted peas in their pods, then try takonomiyaki (#22), an absolutely delicious octopus omelette, or maguro-yamatake (#14), gloppy pieces of raw tuna atop a purée of a starchy potato-like yam. The daily specials listed on a chalkboard often include puffy deep-fried oysters and hamachi kama - specifically, the neck part of a yellowtail - which is fatty, rich and melt-in-your-mouth delicious. Meat skewers (#25) range from chicken yakitori to leg of lamb to beef tongue. Also on tap are plump dumplings, simple daikon salad and deep-fried eggplant in a sweet-salty sauce sprinkled with shallots, seaweed and ginger. For a more typical meal, Isakaya offers artfully presented fish filets and exotic tempura platters.

Address: 3469 Parc, Phone: 845-8226, Hours: Lunch 11am–3pm; dinner 6–10pm, later on weekends, Price: $22/person including tax, without drinks & tip

Mommy’s Fish & Chips

The place for old-style fish and chips, Mommy’s serves up this U.K. staple as though cholesterol was never discovered. The no-frills atmosphere and the constant sizzle of the deep fryer add an air of authenticity to what’s basically a fast-food eatery. Slabs of cod are battered and cooked until they take on a golden hue, then served with a lemon wedge and creamy tartar sauce. The menu also offers reasonably priced scallop, clam and shrimp platters, steaming styrofoam bowls of chowder and seafood burgers made of breaded scallops, whitefish or salmon. You can up the oil intake even further with an order of onion rings so enormous they could be onion bracelets. Keep hydrated with beverages from across the sea: dandelion and burdock soda, pungent ginger beer or imported ales like Bass or Newcastle. In addition to Scottish staples like Batchelors mushy peas and black pudding, you’ll also find oysters from New Brunswick (in season until March). :

Address: 651 de L’Eglise, Phone: 762-1294, Hours: Mon–Wed 11:30am–7:30pm; Thurs & Fri 11am–9pm; Sat 12–9pm; closed Sun, Price: $8/person before tax, drinks or tip