by SARAH MUSGRAVE

I had a revelation recently, when I stopped into Pendelis to get a pizza to go. I’ve been getting deliveries from here for ages, and I’d always assumed it was an Italian name. The guy behind the counter corrected me: no, it’s actually a Greek-run establishment that’s named for a mountain somewhere in the country. In fact, while stretching and twirling the dough, he sang me a song that says something about how some awful woman broke some amazing man’s heart and so he is going to climb Pendelis Mountain and stay there forever.

All this to say that it was just more proof that Greeks have really cornered the market on cooking up what hits the spot, and they seem to be willing to do it in any style, at any time of day. There’s no place to more completely appreciate this at four in the morning than New Tripolis, a 24-hour restaurant deep in the heart of Park Ex that certainly wouldn’t be mistaken for an Italian joint. The walls here are covered in murals of rugged countrysides and ruins, and the tables are often full of men who seem to have a lot to talk about over ouzo and snacks.

All manner of fish, seafood and marinated meats are on display behind a glass-fronted counter near the open kitchen, so if you’re too tired to speak you can just point and grunt. Take your pick and the cook will fry it up for you in a heavy saucepan on his primitive gas range that looks like it was excavated from the galley kitchen of a shipwrecked freighter in the Agean Sea.

To start, try the pikilia plate ($8), a mix of delicious dips and salads served with thick crusty bread. The thick and creamy tzatziki, heavy-on-the-garlic skordalia and the dense, pink taramosalata are all excellent, as are the pickled herring and the vine leaves. Other authentic appetizers to look out for include avgolemono soup ($6.50), which unfurls a blend of citrus and chicken on your tongue, and saganaki ($10), fried kefalotiri cheese that’s insanely salty (insanely) but strangely satisfying.

From the ocean, choices include squid, whole red snapper, whiting and sardines, most of which usually look like they’ve just come from the fishmonger next door. The grilled octopus ($16), in particular, rivals what you’d find in fancier places. The chunks are tender but firm, simply seasoned with oil, lemon and onions. Like most of the dishes, it’s served with a copious portion of your choice of village or Greek salad. It costs a dollar more for the village, but that’s where the feta’s at.

When it comes to meats, New Tripolis offers just about every kind. The souvlaki is more than palatable (pork souvlaki plates start at $7.50) but this is a great place to broaden your horizons, with choices like marinated chicken breasts and veal cutlets prepared in a simple, homey fashion.

Another good option is a large serving of sliced Greek sausage that will set you back $12. Sliced and grilled, the plate is absolutely covered in this mild but faintly sweet meat (impress the somewhat dour waitresses by asking for it by its Greek name, loukaniko). It comes with lots and lots of sliced potatoes. Another popular order here is the lamb chops ($14), which are small, meaty and extremely flavourful. It’s immensely satisfying to get your hands dirty while gnawing on the bones.

Overall, this place is a paradise for anyone who’s been sweating it out on the nightshift or on the dancefloor. It offers the kind of full, freshly cooked meals you’d think you’d only ever be able to find during regular dining hours. :

New Tripolis
Address: 679 St-Roch (@ Bloomfield)
Phone: 277-4689
Hours: 24/7
Best features: Comfort crêpes, chalet cachet
Alcohol: Yes
Vegetarian friendly: No
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: No
Price: $16/person before tax, drinks or tip
Rating: **1/2 out of ****