by SARAH MUSGRAVE

There are so many “new” developments in “Old” Montreal these days that the area might soon have to change its name. One of the latest is a resto-bar called Cluny, located in the refurbished Darling Foundry, an abandoned building recently given a new lease on life as an arts venue. Open for breakfast, lunch and twilight treats, the galley kitchen in the gallery caters to local tech types and anyone else who wants to eat in a post-industrial hideaway.

Occupying a corner of the building, Cluny has a stunning space to work with. The ceilings must be 20 feet high and the beams are covered in layers of paint and grime from its years as a steel foundry. Some people will find the décor too self-consciously “urban”—and it’s true that Jennifer Beals lookalikes swinging from the rafters with welding torches wouldn’t look entirely out of place here. Others will be charmed pantless by the monolithic surroundings, frosted glass windows and français-de-France service, quoi?

You order at the counter, then you carry your meal away on a bright yellow plastic tray that contrasts cheekily with the food artfully arranged on large white plates. The central seating area consists of two long tables flanked by moulded plastic airport benches, which means that if you slide along to the middle of the row, you have to disturb someone while they’re eating to get out. It also means this isn’t a spot to have an intimate talk about Feelings and Issues; it’s more suited to discussing Art, Commerce and the Future (and attracts a crowd that probably wants snippets of their fascinating conversations to be overheard).

If you can deal with the scene, the food won’t disappoint. Cluny is affiliated with nearby lunch institution Titanic, and fans of its everfresh fare, quirky charm and French/fun/fusion menu will find many of the same items on offer here. Tops among them are sumptuous sandwiches on baguettes ($5–6). They’re always overstuffed and the crusty bread threatens to give you an instant cleft palate, but they’re so yummy that you chew through the pain. On the day of our visit, selections included brie and pesto, salmon and red peppers, and chicken salad—a sweetly tangy, Tex-Mex-Cajun version made with corn kernels, a hint of spice and fresh coriander, held together by mayo and flanked by lettuce and tomatoes. The two halves of the sandwich were topped with blades of chives and accompanied by a shot glass full of penne in a light tomato, herb and oil sauce.

We also shared the special of the day ($9), a breast of perfectly cooked chicken in a wonderfully tasty sauce, again vaguely sweet. The plate was full of other treasures, including soft, flavour-packed grilled eggplant, comforting mashed potato hash, baby spinach salad and less-inspired chewy wilted greens with kidney beans.

Although it was overkill, we also got the antipasto misto ($8), a collection of all sorts of divinely seasoned grilled veggies atop a lightly dressed salad. Dotted with sesame seeds and garlic, the combination of crunchy-but-cooked red bell pepper, broccoli, asparagus spears, eggplant and beets easily makes a meal and, like almost everything here, a healthy one at that. You can round it out by starting with a steaming bowl of soupe du jour, like cream of spinach ($3) or finishing with homey desserts like a moist square of baked apple pudding and a kickass cup of coffee.

Overall, Cluny offers a high-concept experience at relatively low cost—even more so in the evening hours, when wine and tapas are offered at this self-described “artbar.” :

Cluny
Address: 257 Prince (@ Ottawa)
Phone: 866-1213
Hours: Mon-Fri 8am-8pm; closed Sat, Sun brunch at noon
Best features: Post-industrial digs, hyper-fresh food
Alcohol: Yes
Vegetarian friendly: Yes
Credit cards: Not yet
Wheelchair access: Yes
Price: $10/person before tax, drinks or tip
Rating: *** out of ****