FASHION

Dodging culture vultures

Less is more at Eskimo Store and Design

by RAF KATIGBAK

On Pine Avenue, tucked away just off the Main, lies a little venture called the Eskimo Store. Run by former Fresh Jive, Dub, Droors and Physical Science in-house designer Willow and his partner, ex-Turbo and DNA Records manager John Hatz, it’s a small boutique whose philosophy sits somewhere between “straight-up streetwear” and “upscale urban fashion.” Emphasizing high quality, and low volume, they’re stocking hot young designers like Leftfield, Rogan, Charizmatik, Generic Costume, Aem’Kai and Development. The store’s design—white, minimal and relaxed—also reflects the focus and clean line of the in-house graphic and clothing design firm (Eskimo Design) operated by the owners. With future plans that include the addition of art and design books, magazines and music, Eskimo hopes to further the idea of integrating their complete aesthetic and lifestyle. The Mirror recently sat down with Willow and Hatz to talk shop.

Mirror: Do you find it’s hard as a small label to stay ahead of the game?
John Hatz: We both have a musical background; Willow co-owns a record label called Audio Research, and I managed Turbo Records and the DNA Records shop. We know what it’s like to discover something, help push it and make it really big, then see it get eaten up by the mainstream, and you end up hating it. Everything gets away from you. It’s bound to happen.
Willow: But just like in music, quality has no time line. A Bob Marley or Rolling Stones album was good 30 years ago and it’s still good today. I’m trying to remove myself from the cycle of chasing “the next shit.” I see this store as a sort of step back to step forward.

M: From the lines you carry, it looks like supporting smaller designers is important for you.
W: Ninety per cent of the labels in here are friends or people I know or worked for. I’d rather carry a lot of young designers doing one-offs than import big name stuff. The bottom line is craftsmanship and not trend.

M: It seems you want to distance yourselves from both the typical upscale trendy boutiques and the more urban streetwear stores.
W: I feel like we’re right in the middle. I have no problems getting a real nice blazer or pair of designer jeans mixed up with a printed T-shirt and something from army surplus, so I don’t mind having a $10–15 item in the store as long as it looks good with an expensive pair of designer jeans.

M: Why put your design firm offices right in the middle of the store?
W: In New York, you can walk into a store and they’ll have their atelier in the back where they’re actually making stuff. There’s a different dynamic there than some girl jumping on you at the door going, “Do you need help?!” You walk in and you’re actually dealing with people who are making the clothes, I like that.
JH: Plus there’s so much going on in this area. We do graphics, music and fashion design so it makes total sense to have it here. It’s inspiring.
W: In the end we really want to do quality stuff that people appreciate, that has staying power and that has heart. People come here because they know that we’re gonna have stuff that they like.

Eskimo Store is open from “about noon” to “whenever” at 58 des Pins E., 844-9696

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