| Totally tacos >>
Taquería Sol y Luna
does one thing To call Taquería Sol y Luna a glorified taco stand doesn’t quite do this new resto justice, but it definitely sums up the menu: all tacos, all the time. The space itself is a far cry from a fast-food Mexican joint, thanks to a décor of brightly painted walls, textured tablecloths and sheer yellow curtains that bring a sunny glow to the windows. In the background, strains of Latin music blend with sounds of sizzling from the kitchen to create an uplifting, cheerful atmosphere. There are about a dozen taco variations to choose from at this authentic eatery, served like you’d find them in Mexico: open-faced on soft corn and flour tortillas, with bowls of salsa verde and salsa rojo on the side. The ingredients inventively juxtapose smoky and sweet, tangy and creamy, or spicy and mild. Servings come four to a plate, and are reasonably priced at between $6.50 and $8 an order. The first time we visited, our meal had its ups and downs. Difficult diners that we are-and in the interests of sampling as much as possible-we wondered if we could try four different kinds of tacos by ordering half plates. The waiter looked dubious but went to ask. We saw him getting chewed out at the kitchen, and he came back to the table considerably more subdued. “She said no,” he told us. So instead we shared one veggie and one meat option. On the upside, there were the nopalitos con queso, made with Nopal cactus (full of good, healthy things for your body), tomatoes, onion and cheese. They were delicious, and the ingredients contrasted most excellently. On the downside, though, were the tacos de res, made with ground beef that hadn’t been drained of its excess fat. Maybe it was just an oversight, but the taste was a bit like licking a frying pan. The next time around was much more successful. We tried tacos al pastor, topped with a refreshing combination of marinated pork, onion, coriander and pineapple. The pibil was also a good choice, made with shredded chicken, achiote chili sauce and red-tinged pickled onion atop a layer of black beans. Our vegetarian entry, tortillas folded over plump mushrooms and fried onions, was also moist and tasty. The tacos don’t come with an accompaniment, but for less than $2 you can get Mexican rice studded with vegetables, or a plate of black beans. You don’t really need these side dishes, though, especially if you get an appetizer. To start, there’s freshly mashed guacamole, well prepared if a little pricey at $6, and a tortilla soup ($3), a soothing combination of soggy and crisp, made with a light tomato broth dotted with sour cream. In addition to imported cerveza (beer) and wine-free sangria that makes you wonder if such a thing should actually exist, there are a couple of Mexican beverages to hydrate you. Don’t miss out on the agua de horchata, a cinnamon-tinged rice water that’s tinted a cloudy white. It’s almost like dessert in a glass, but it manages to complement the savoury food quite nicely. There’s also agua de tamarindo that’s like iced tea with a trace of tamarind, a semi-sour fruit. For dessert, there’s pay de queso, a cheese pie that’s denser, thinner and much less sweet than American-style cheesecake. It comes topped with fruit, but I’d just as soon get it without. Short of a trip to a taco stand off the zócalo in Mexico City, this simple restaurant will definitely brighten up a late-summer evening. : Taquería Sol y Luna |