Cool jerk

>> And other reggae recipes at Jamaica Way

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

I really have to get off the metro at Snowdon more often. Just a few steps from the station, there’s a whole row of cheap, authentic and fun eateries waiting to be sampled. In one block, you can take your pick of reasonably priced Russian, kosher Middle Eastern or Caribbean fare.

To get to Jamaica Way, you go up a few steps to a colourful space that’s vaguely haphazard but not without its charms. While the general vibe is young and laidback, I spotted a couple of grannies chowing down at a table near the front—a good sign, as you can always trust seniors to sniff out a deal. Smokers get the party room at the back, complete with tinsel Happy Birthday sign, deflating balloons, turquoise tablecloths and reggae blasting on the speakers. Actually, I shouldn’t say the music was blasting, because I bet it gets a whole lot louder in there sometimes.

If you like jerk chicken, you’ll be happy here. The skin is blackened to form a crisp casing that seals in the meat’s moisture, and slathered in a distinctive sauce made with allspice, potent Scotch bonnets and thyme, to give the heat some depth. I think there were approximations of brown sugar and soya in there as well—but when I half-jokingly asked for the recipe, the response was a cheerful, finger-wagging “na-ah.” That’s okay, I suspect jerk chicken is one of those don’t-try-this-at-home dishes, and at $6 (small) and $8 (large) a plate, why bother?

Like all the meals, the jerk comes with red peas (kidney beans) and rice, as well as plantains that are puffy, soft, and sweet like caramel. You can also get a chewy-gooey dumpling topped with a tomato-based sauce to go along with it.

The saltfish and calalloo is equally delicious ($7/$10). It’s made of dried, salted cod that’s been soaked and drained to restore the flavour and texture. Almost like a stew, the flaked fish is cooked up with onions, tomatoes, a hint of spice and chopped calalloo, a yummy vegetable that’s somewhere between spinach and collard greens.

You can also get your saltfish with ackee, a combo that’s often referred to as Jamaica’s national dish. Originally imported from West Africa, this fruit has to be cleaned and cooked carefully or it can be toxic. Apparently, it’s somewhat of an acquired taste and one I wasn’t in the mood to see if I’d acquired yet.

The menu board also features Caribbean classics like oxtail stew, red snapper, kingfish and curried goat. For a really good deal, on Wednesdays you can get any two small chicken meals (jerk, curried or stewed) for $10.

Besides good food and prices, one of the things I appreciated about this place is the choice of large or small plates. It seems to me that this concept should be more widespread, as it cuts down on waste on both sides of the kitchen. If you’re really hungry you’ll spring for the large; if you’re not, you won’t have leftovers. You can always order extra plantains, dumplings or the daily soup (chicken foot or cow foot, for instance) to round out your meal. Alternately, patties are only a buck, available with vegetable, chicken or beef fillings.

There are also some desserts to try: peanut sugar cake, coconut sugar cake, coconut balls and jackass cookies (like ginger snaps) all cost around $2. And don’t forget to keep yourself hydrated with lots of appealing drinks like ginger beer, carrot juice, tropical sodas or mint tea. :

Jamaica Way
Address: 4961-B Queen-Mary
Phone: 343-JERK (5375)
Hours: Tues–Wed 9am–10pm; Thurs–Sat 9am–11pm; closed Sun & Mon
Best features: Jamaican specialties
at special prices
Alcohol: no, but ginger beer is just as good
Vegetarian friendly: no
Credit cards: “not yet”
Wheelchair access: no
Price: $9/person before tax, drinks or tip
Rating: HHH out of HHHH

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