Breakfast club

>> The egg comes first at La Mère Poule

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

You’d think people would’ve tired of egg dishes with unbearably cute names by now, but the number of places in this city devoted to the first meal of the day has just kept growing and growing over the last decade. The weird thing is, so have the lineups. You probably keep your favourite breakfast spot to yourself, in hopes of actually being able to linger at the table without rabid, caffeine-craving crowds staring you down.

There’s no point keeping La Mère Poule secret anymore because a couple of new locations are set to open, one on Masson in Rosemont next week and the other on Mont-Royal E. this summer. In the battle for breakfast bellies, the two-year-old outfit is late to enter the cockfight. But for my money, Montreal’s next mini-chain is heads and tailfeathers above the competition (especially if you’ve found that the price/value ratio at some of the standard places has suffered recently). So far anyway, there’s no skimping on quality ingredients, portions or attention to detail.

The original location is on a pleasant but out-of-the-way stretch of Beaubien, right across from Molson Park. The décor is a bit fussy, with a chicken motif everywhere: egg baskets, iron roosters and surprise sound effects in the bathroom. But the “isn’t that precious” surroundings suit the fact that many of the meals come from the recipes of one of the owners’ grandmothers. The ham was a hand-me-down, as were the röstis, an old European dish made of grated potato with a hint of fresh cream, seasoned and grilled on both sides so it’s kind of crispy and moist. Another house specialty is the sweet stewed apples that give every plate a homey feel.

The eggs Benedict florentine ($8.45) is a whole new presentation. The poached eggs are served in baskets made of filo pastry, atop cooked spinach and doused in a creamy carbonara sauce that’s brimming with bacon. The plate also has fruit, a small portion of rösti, toast, and more.

The rösti Normand makes for a filling meal (around $8.95). The potato base, like a latke only thinner and looser, is topped with chunks of tasty ham, onion and melted cheese, all cooked together, with some sour cream on the side.

The omelettes ($6.95–7.95) are great, made with three extra large eggs and an array of cheeses from Oka to Monterey Jack. The delicious Mykonos contains feta, tomato and basil, and the Denmark is made with blue cheese, nuts and spinach.

There are about a dozen gourmet breakfasts on the list. La Poulette Bleue ($7.45), for instance, consists of two eggs, blueberry pancakes, bacon and all the other fixings. The crêpes Bretonne are great too: La Brébis is filled with fresh fruit and heavy cream while the Coq Breton is crêpe stuffed with ham, asparagus and Gruyère, served with béchamel sauce, salad and coffee. If you want to keep it simple, the standard two eggs and bacon, with homestyle potatoes, fruit, stewed apples, bread and coffee costs around five bucks.
Another healthy touch (though I’ve yet to make use of it myself) is that you can switch the potatoes for a green salad. Other low-fat, good for your heart stuff is marked with an icon, but you’re allowed to cheat a little: one of the items, for example, is a half grapefruit grilled with Cointreau ($2.55).

For really late risers, there’s a table d’hôte of daily lunch specials (burgers, salads, pastas) for less than $10. There’s also a kids’ page on the menu, along with colouring materials, so that other breakfasters (and mommy) can nurse their hangovers in peace. :

La Mère Poule
Address: 2500 Beaubien E.
Phone: 725-4419
Hours: Mon–Fri 6am–3pm; Sat 7am–3pm; Sun 7am–4pm
Best features: Meticulously prepared homey breakfasts
Alcohol: No
Vegetarian friendly: Yes
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Two steps
Price: $9/person before tax, drinks or tip
Rating: HHHH out of HHHH

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