Sub culture

>> Enter the wonderful world of Vietnamese sandwiches

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

At least there’s one upside to the legacy of colonialism in Vietnam: bánh mì, the country’s delectable submarine sandwiches. They combine elements from the cooking of the various cultures that occupied the Vietnamese over the centuries—China, Japan, France, maybe even the U.S.—to create one of the best lunch foods around.

One bite of a bánh mì and it’s easy to see why they’ve developed something of a cult following in recent years. Long like a sub, they’re made on a smaller version of the famous French baguette. Into them goes a mixture of Asian and non-Asian ingredients: a choice of meats, strips of lightly pickled carrot and radish, fresh cilantro sprigs and tasty spreads like pâté or seasoned mayo. The interplay of these contrasting flavours and crunchy textures is what makes these sandwiches so different and refreshing.

Montreal’s bánh mì stands tend to be small, quick and jam-packed with all sorts of pre-made dishes. A lot of the stuff in the clear plastic containers was completely unrecognizable to me and the staff couldn’t always find the words to explain what they were. One thing I learned though, especially when it comes to the multicoloured desserts, is that nothing looks like it tastes. But it’s hard to go wrong with a healthy cuisine that favours vegetables, freshness and generally mild, faintly sweet tastes. Plus, the sandwiches sell for only $2.50 to $3, and the side dishes are about a buck more than that.
The busy Hoàng Oanh sandwich shop has two locations: one in Chinatown and the other near Jean-Talon metro, my favourite place for Vietnamese subs. They serve about five different types of bánh mì, including chicken, pork, beef and a vegetarian version.
All the fillings are laid out in immaculate little trays and the bread is sliced and stuffed before your eyes. The grilled pork is excellent, with a hint of charcoal coming through the chopped pieces of lightly seasoned meat. The grilled chicken is equally good, if a little milder. You may be asked if you want your bánh mì with hot green peppers—tempting if you like the hot stuff, but I’m warning you from personal experience that biting into a full one will set your mouth on fire.

There’s a ton of other selections, many of them vegetarian, in just about every colour of the rainbow, which can serve as meals or side dishes. The marinated tofu (there are several kinds, but I tried the one that’s brownish-beige and looks more like seitan) is yummy, with an almost perfumed taste. I’d also recommend the dumplings, with ground meat and sliced black mushrooms showing through the semi-transparent wrap. They come with a spicy dipping sauce and rounds of thinly sliced liverwurst-style sausage. For something more français, the flaky puff pastries contain a pork mixture. (1071 St-Laurent, 954-0053; 7178 St-Denis, 271-8668)

A tiny hole in the wall in the Côte des Neiges area, Hoàng Yên is another great place for a take-out lunch. The very prim and proper lady behind the counter will whip up bánh mì ga and bánh mì nem to go—chicken and pork respectively.

The pork here is more like a cold cut, reddish in colour and cut in thick strips that run the length of the bread. A garlicky mayo spread rounds out the slightly sweet, cured flavour. Rather than chunks of meat, the chicken is a blended paste, served with another layer of pâté. The requisite veggies are crisp and fresh.

This shop also has a huge array of meatless selections, which you’ll find on the right-hand side of the counter: tofu in every shape and form, salads, marinades and chilled casseroles. I enjoyed a salad of thinly sliced cucumber, red pepper, sprouts, carrots and cabbage, topped with sesame seeds. For a really intriguing flavour, sample the bright pink stuff—you can’t miss it. The texture was strangely spongy and chewy, and it tasted slightly like marshmallow or taro root, but I still have no idea what it was. (6635 Côte-des-Neiges, 731-3993) :

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