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Pig out!
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Au Pied de Cochon is a porker’s paradise
by SARAH MUSGRAVE
Au Pied de Cochon is an unabashed celebration of carnivorousness. There’s
nothing apologetic about meat eating at this new Duluth bistro, but
there’s nothing crass about it either. The emphasis is on treating
animal food with the respect it deserves: the meat is from small, “artisinal”
farms and is handled in the kitchen with skill and tradition.
It’s an upscale but friendly place, with an open cooking area,
wood-burning stove and smiling wait staff busy cutting into thick loaves
of bread. It’s entirely non-smoking—the menu proclaims, “The
only things smoked here are the salmon and the ham.” The food consists
mostly of alternatives to beef, like venison, duck, fish and chips,
and, of course, pig’s feet. Vegetarians, quite simply, need not
apply.
Right off the top, the menu has a fun twist: a handful of inexpensive
mini-appetizers to accompany your starting drink. I like this idea a
lot—it gives you time to make sense of the menu while you nibble.
We tried the cromesquis de fois gras ($2 each), exquisitely fried cubes
that squirt out an amazingly complex flavour to coat your tastebuds
(eat them in one shot or you’ll be wiping them off the walls).
We also got an order of saucissettes ($2), two pieces of dried, smoked
sausage that went down well with our microbrews.
The real appetizers continue the meat fest. The cochonnailles platter,
for instance, shows off all sorts of different pork products, along
with pâté and marinated eggs ($5.50). We sampled the salade
de croustillant de pied de cochon et rillons ($7), which translates
to something like crispy pig’s feet and pork bits in grease salad.
This was my courageous attempt to eat a pig’s foot, and the chopped-up
version encased in a light batter had a surprisingly comforting taste.
The bacon-like chunks atop the greens were delicious, but there was
an acrid edge to the sliced tomatoes.
It’s also worth checking out the specials of the week. From the
three spotlighted appetizers, we made a lucky choice with the parmentier
de cerf ($7). Served in a piping hot tureen, the tender venison meat
was soaking in a sauce that tasted of pearl onions and wine. The soft
potato topping made it like the best of sheperd’s pie and boeuf
bourguignon put together.
By now, we were getting full and the main courses were still to come.
The brandade ($15.50) is a hearty fish casserole made with cod, potatoes
and cream, permeated with the flavour of fresh leeks. Rustic yet refined,
it reminded me of something a Basque fisherman would eat. The taste
is pretty uniform from bite to bite, so it might be preferable as an
appetizer.
As for the côte de cochon heureux ($19.75), I’m not sure
how happy the pig was to be killed for my plate but, then again, at
least he was raised on a small farm where he had a better chance at
a pleasant if short life. The huge, tender perfectly cooked chop was
served on the bone, next to fresh sauerkraut with a mustardy tang. It
was topped with onions and mushrooms in a divine wine sauce. You get
an Opinel knife to better cut into it, which makes the experience more
pretentious and primal at the same time.
Delicious as it all was, we couldn’t quite finish. An appetizer
and a main course would be too much for many people—go for a few
of the small starters or make a meal of two appetizers to leave room
for desserts like baked apples and crème caramel with marmalade.
The only real downside here is that regulars will quickly become real
porkers themselves. :
Feedback?
restoagogo@hotmail.com
Au Pied de Cochon
Address: 536 Duluth E.
Phone: 281-1114
Hours: 5–11pm; closed Mon
Best features: meats and treats
Alcohol: yes
Vegetarian friendly: no
Credit cards: yes
Wheelchair access: one step up
Price: $28/person before tax, drinks or tip
Rating: HHH1/2 out of HHHH
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