Femme factory

>> Chicks on Speed bruise and confuse art as we know it

by LORRAINE CARPENTER


Their music, videos, visual art, crafts and clothing are as roughly chopped up and re-assembled as their ethos, a contradictory jumble of DIY principles and preposterous poses informed by irony, fakery and, all things said, bravery. Tellingly, the tumultuous trio with an implied penchant for crank come from opposite corners of the world: the U.S. (Melissa Logan), Australia (Alex Murray-Leslie) and Germany (Kiki Moorse), land of their meeting place (Munich) and home base (Berlin). Along with pushing the boundaries of technology and taste with their own punk-infused pop-electro (as well as their label, Chicks on Speed Records), the trio have recently crashed head-on into the mainstream fashion world, if only to use Collette and company against themselves. The Mirror tried to get a grip on all this chaos by chatting with the Chicks about their origins, their gear and their Chixel.

 

Mirror: So your sound was once described as “fake music,” a term you seemed to embrace. What does it mean to you?

Melissa Logan: Well, we thought we were being really tongue-in-cheek making jokes about playback, using the mini-disc, and then we realized that most live music is done that way. We didn’t know how real it was.

Alex Murray-Leslie: I think “fake music” goes against specialization and the idea of professionalism, so you’re stating something while questioning its authenticity. It’s like you can’t do it yourself, or maybe you can but you’re pretending you can’t… (laughs). The term really came from the fact that we were a fake band, and we really were in the beginning. We just wanted to be an art project, so we started by making a box that contained all kinds of objects to do with being a band, including a tape of some chopped-up collage music.

M: But music has become your primary focus?

AM: No, no, no, not at all. Music is only one very small element of what we’re doing. We’re also running the record label—we now have three artists, DAT Politics, Le Tigre and Sylvester Boy, so it’s a lot of work to keep that running. And there are different exhibitions we’re in, and we’re making clothes to supply shops in different cities, so we’re like a little factory, really.

 

We have a technical

M: Speaking of Le Tigre, their deal is using electronics as opposed to guitars, showing that women can operate machinery while rejecting the typically male rock format. Considering you have a song called “We Don’t Play Guitars,” is your choice of gear equally political?

AM: Yeah, I think it’s telling men to get off the stage with their guitars and get into something else. I’m saying men because it usually is men wanking around, isn’t it, and we don’t need to see that anymore. The song is really targeted towards America because rock is so unbelievably important there, and it seems they’re wanting to create their icons again.

Kiki Moorse: When the electronic thing really started here in Europe, in the late ’80s and early ’90s, it came with a political movement as well, it was like a small revolution, so using electronics and computers to make music is becoming standard, I must say. What’s definitely new and different is to use it in such a rock way, the way we use it. Electronic musicians are very calm behind their laptops, whereas we do a real rock show, but with electronic devices.

ML: But you tend to get into the gear that’s around you. Like, there’s this company Abelton that made a really good program called Live and we’re trying it out, you know, but they’re our next door neighbours. So you have to be surrounded by it, and if there are people down the road who play guitar, then I guess one might play with them.

M: Would you go rock if the mood struck you?

ML: We would maybe incorporate it just to contradict ourselves (laughs). It’s really fun doing “We Don’t Play Guitars” though. At our soundcheck in Iceland, we were testing some really hardcore samples from the song on our little machines and there were some guys tuning their guitars and they made these faces, like, “Oh God, what am I doing with this guitar? These chicks on stage are way louder and more hardcore.” This way is just cleaner and more fun, but the amount of energy that goes into learning and playing a riff is equal to working out how one’s gonna sample, what one’s gonna sample, who you’re gonna find to play with you. I’d say learning how to use new programs, even though we get people to help us, is definitely more difficult than picking up an instrument that has a thousand books written about it. Live just came out a year and a half ago and there are still bugs in it.

AM: It’s exciting, it’s really new terrain. The guys at Abelton actually made the software for people doing Mille Plateaux sort of music, or just playing loops in and out, so we’re the first band who wanted to use it this way on stage. It’s quite risky.

M: What else are you cooking up, gear-wise?

AM: One thing we want to do is develop cable-less equipment because it’s so ugly to have cables everywhere. We could have done that with some sort of infrared but it’s too sensitive, you don’t have enough control. But that’s the next step. We did develop these leather belts—with Pwer Salzwedel, he’s worked with bands like Stereo Total, so he’s quite well known in Berlin—and we’ve managed to make them into triggers that will play MIDI notes through the belts. Oh, and if you take off the belt, you can play it like a guitar!

 

Fashion, turn to the left

M: Okay, tell me about “Fashion Rules” and the Chixel.

ML: Well, we saw a very good laptop bag that Chanel made, so we’re copying it and putting it into production. That’s the Chixel.

KM: We went to Paris because we were invited to do a photo shoot with Karl Lagerfeld for V magazine, and we requested to have the Chanel bags as props and they gave them to us! That was good, now we have the original to copy.

AM: That project has to do with a song we just made called “Fashion Rules,” our take on fashion victims and how they should get a life, basically. And Karl Lagerfeld took the picture for the single cover, so it’s all twisted.

ML: The song goes, “Hey you fashion people in your camouflage wear/You think you’re really quite up there,” you know, really tongue-in-cheek about Paris fashion, but the Chanel people are flattered, they love it when you give them attention.

AM: We’re also in an exhibition called Fashion Rules at the Melbourne Fashion Festival in Australia, and there’s gonna be somebody sewing in the space, making the first prototype of this bag. The bag is made from a PVC banner we made last year for Paris Fashion Week. So we’re just recycling our art works into laptop bags, and 20 bags can be made out of this banner.

ML: The Chanels cost 1,500 Euro but the Chixel is a cheaper version, 500 Euro. Not like H&M, those big fashion companies are a little bit too cheap because they use slave labour, which we’re not gonna do.

AM: Karl Lagerfeld has thousands of slaves working for him. We’re actually doing this show with a group called Fair Wear, you could call them fashion police. They go around to the different factories to make sure the goods are being produced in a fair way, that people are getting good wages, have a good workspace and aren’t being put through terror.

M: So you’re like the Robin Hoods of fashion.

AM: Well, when we were growing up we saw big companies ripping off small artists, so we’re trying to turn that around. To stop that, you have to create competition, so you can call it fantasy but somehow it works. If you say, “We are your competition,” then you are, and if you have a clear statement, it can’t be copied.

M: Exploitation is a recurring theme for you, in songs like “Glamour Girl.” You have a lyric, “Do it to yourself before it’s done to you.” Have you done it to yourself?

KM: Of course we are exploiting ourselves. I mean, we’re really going to the limit, but that’s the way it has to be for us, somehow.

ML: People are scared of being exploited, but they forget that you can also exploit other things around you in positive ways, like with sampling. We’re also trying to make an example for other people to do the same.

M: And no one’s being hurt in the process.

ML: Well, maybe Chanel. But it’s all for the people’s good, you know, we’re socialists! :

With guests at SAT on Sunday, March 24, 9pm, $18

 


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