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In the raw
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Oysters and other aphrodisiacs at the Hotel St-Paul bar
by SARAH MUSGRAVE
Here we are smack in the middle of the most depressing month of the
year, and along comes Valentine’s Day to make some of us feel better
and some of us feel worse. Whether you’re celebrating or commiserating,
the raw bar at the super-swank Hotel St-Paul in Old Montreal might just
put you in the mood for love.
This ultra-design second-floor space features padded banquettes, comfortable
tables and a soft glow that makes everyone look healthy. Besides the
flattering lighting, there are other elements here to get your juices
flowing. There’s alcohol aplenty (the great uninhibitor), it’s
expensive (some people find money a turn-on) and, most importantly,
the menu spotlights all sorts of lubricated luxuries to slide down your
throat.
The focal point is oysters, long considered an aphrodisiac. The science
behind that is a little sketchy, but it could be because they contain
zinc, a mineral linked to progesterone and male potency. Another theory
attributes it to their shape, which supposedly resembles a woman’s
private parts. Considering what they look like and how they taste, I
think their sexy rep derives from the fact that once you’ve eaten
one you’ll be ready to eat anything.
Several varieties—mostly from Atlantic sources—can be ordered
à la carte for $3 apiece. We tried a large, flat-shelled type
called Belon, served on a bed of crushed ice, with a slice of lemon
and cabernet red wine vinegar. Not for the novice, they have a very
intense, tangy flavour, with a burst of metallic seawater at the end.
If you’re a little unsure about that briny taste, the hot or chilled
oyster trio comes with inventive toppings ($12), including sour cream
and salmon caviar, kumquats and citrus, and gazpacho with lemon liqueur.
For all-around sampling, the Petit Plateau ($38) is a good bet, featuring
different sorts of seafood on a two-tiered metal tray. Ours contained
six buttery Tatamagouche oysters from Nova Scotia, four clams, two scallops
on the half shell, four good-sized shrimp, six mussels—all with
contrasting seasonings. Everything was superbly fresh, but the scallops
with grapefruit were particularly delicious (also offered for $4 each).
Atop the tray were bowls of house cocktail sauce, surprisingly mild
horseradish shavings and a tarragon mayo—a nice touch even if they
weren’t suited to much except the shrimp.
We also tried the tuna tartare and sashimi plate. A small round of melt-in-your-mouth
tartare sat atop an avocado base. Next to it were three slices of sashimi,
with a pepper and citrus crust for extra texture and zip. For $12, though,
the portion could have been a bit bigger.
In the meat department, the trad combo of prosciutto and cantaloupe
($7) was given an exciting new twist. The cured meat was wrapped around
three slender breadsticks, and served in a champagne flute that contained
the sweet counterpoint of melon balls marinated in port wine. The carpaccio
of filet mignon ($11) wasn’t nearly as substantial as steak tartare,
consisting instead of wafer-thin slices of red meat with a mound of
savoury green sauce and Parmesan shards.
The food here is not going to fill you up, so it’s best to plan
on a meal before or after. But if you can afford to spend $20 on sumptuous
snacks, there’s some great stuff to try. To wash it all down, be
sure to get a mohito, a Cuban drink made with rum and freshly crushed
mint. I intended to have just one, but three times $8.25 later, I was
craving another. At that point, I really couldn’t tell if the aphrodisiac
effect had kicked in. I certainly had an overwhelming longing—for
more drinks and something substantial to eat. :
Feedback? restoagogo@hotmail.com
St-Paul Hotel
Address: 355 McGill
Phone: 380-2222
Hours: Wed–Sat 6pm–2:30am (kitchen 7pm)
Best features: décor, drinks, oysters
Alcohol: yes
Vegetarian friendly: no
Credit cards: yes
Wheelchair access: yes
Price: $20/person before tax, drinks or tip
Rating: HHH1/2 out of HHHH
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