Meal tickets

Restos to remember and foods to look out for

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

The word globalization was on everyone’s lips this year—for good and bad—and the “small world after all” theme was echoed in the local restaurant scene. Not surprisingly, fusion cuisine continued to be popular, melding tastes from different cultures into one melting pot. The city’s ethnic eateries also flourished, offering authentic cooking from all sorts of faraway places, catering to immigrants in search of downhome food as well as other Montrealers in search of adventure. My memorable meals of 2001 took me across the globe.

Isakaya
Explore the Japanese side of the menu for a taste of real Asian pub food—as exciting as sushi used to seem way back when. Some numbers to remember: octopus omelette (takonomiyaki, #22), raw tuna on a starchy purée (maguro-yamatake, #14), meat skewers (yakitori #25), deep-fried pork cutlet (ton katsu #29). Check the chalkboard for specials like hamachi kama (yellowtail neck), deep-fried oysters or eggplant and daikon salad. (3469 Parc; 845-8226)

Khyber Pass
Sampling food from Afghanistan seems particularly timely these days and this is a cozy and relatively inexpensive spot to do it. Start with a variety of dumplings and the bonami citrouille, slices of fried pumpkin doused in an unusual sauce of cardamom, ginger and chilies. Main courses include great brochettes, fragrant rice and a veggie plate. (506 Duluth E.; 844-7131)

Dic Ann’s
This year’s pick for novelty nosh. The best bang for your burger, or at least the most unusual, in a kitschy roadside diner. Thin patties, thin buns, thin slices of cheese and a thin runny sauce with meat bits in it. As one of my dinner pals said, “You take a bite and it bites you back… with flavour!” Plus, the menu offers a lesson in hamburger history. (10910 Pie-IX, Montreal North)

Le Petit Alep
This Syrian eatery is the ultimate blend of comfort and exotica. Excellent spinach sabanegh sandwiches, kebab osmally doused in tahine, as well as amazing versions of standards like chiche taouk. Unusual appetizers to try: the mazza plate of veggies, Alep cheese and zatar spices, and mouhamara made of breadcrumbs, pomegranate molasses, cayenne and ground walnuts. Don’t forget dessert. (191Jean-Talon E.; 270-9361)

Le Paradis des Amis
A study in contrasts. This fancifully decorated Caribbean hideaway is situated right across the street from Parthenais prison and offers sumptuous table d’hôtes that meld West Indian and French cuisines. These seemingly disparate elements are transformed into something special by the Haitian couple who own the place. Bring someone here for their birthday. (1751 Fullum; 525-6861)

Food forecast
These days we can pretty much sample food from the four corners of the earth, but for my money the unexplored cuisine of the global smorgasbord is Scandinavian. Swedish and Norwegian delicacies would complement the renewed interest in Scandinavian furniture design of the last decade. Think teak tabletops covered in lingonberries, herring, salmon, aquavit, pancakes and those cute little gherkins. I tried it recently in New York, and it all makes for an intriguing and healthy meal.
The Asian invasion of the last few years barely seems to be slowing, but another region is set to make an impact on the Montreal scene. More Central American joints will pop up, offering classics as well as imaginative nuevo Latino cuisine. Watch out for a popular Hispanic street food called pupusas, thick corn tortillas stuffed with cheese or meat. However, my crystal ball was murky as to whether, under the new megacity, licenses will finally be granted to food cart vendors offering steamy snacks.
In 2002, vegetarians should be on the lookout for Quorn. Manufactured in the U.K., it’s been around in Europe for the last 10 years, where it’s the top-selling meat alternative. The company hopes to get its products on local shelves in the next few months. Quorn is not soy-based, but made from myco-protein from the mushroom family that takes the form of everything from chicken patties to ground beef. Food-conscious diners can also expect to see more vegetarian or organic restaurants that aren’t run by hippies.
Finally, for people who are sick of the future, the supper club experience will be revived. Like the popular Russian supper clubs of NYC, these places are about a complete night out: food, drink and entertainment. It could mean candlelight cabaret styled like Paris between the wars, a rowdy burlesque and burgers venue or sleek modern meals and music under one roof.
And finally, Marmite, always more Marmite! <<