Paradise found

Tropical sights and gastronomical delights at Le Paradis des Amis

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

Le Paradis des Amis seems to thrive on defying expectations, and that's definitely part of the fun. It's one of those wacky places that make the Montreal restaurant scene so special. Stepping through the door, you're filled with questions. Why on earth did this Caribbean hideaway--complete with fake waterfall and banana-thatched roof--set up shop across the street from Parthenais prison? How do the exquisitely complex dishes on the menu fit with the steel-drum cruise-liner music? Why is it only table d'hôte? What does it all mean?

Only once you begin to eat does the trepidation fade away, with the realization that you're in very good hands. The chef pops out now and then to make sure you're smiling, while his wife serves the tables seamlessly. Paradis is billed as a West Indian restaurant, but it really offers fine fusion cuisine. It could more accurately be called vision cuisine, specifically that of chef/owner Emmanuel Louissaint, who has conjured up carefully designed multi-course feasts ($25-45). Amid the mix of tropical and French inflections, there's an emphasis on local ingredients: veal from the Charlevoix, Perron cheese and even vegetables from Atwater market.

My mega-meal included an aperitif of kir--white wine and crème de cassis--for a nice mix of dry and sweet. My date ordered a Ti-punch: rum, lime juice and cane sugar. It certainly packed a punch but there was nothing p'tit about it!

As our mouths were warmed by the drinks, we were presented with a tiny pastry-topped dish, the "chef's fancy." Beneath the golden brown crust was a delicious steaming stew of musky mushrooms and piquant sun-dried tomatoes.

Next up for me was a tasty pheasant ballottine, incredibly fresh although it must've taken a lot of preparation. The cylinder of braised meat was surrounded by a savoury sauce and tiny little apples. My friend was equally astounded by his appetizer, a crisp melt-in-your-mouth poppy seed shell, holding a piece of subtle goat cheese baked to fluffiness, and a salad of sharp greens and radicchio drizzled with a far-from-typical honey and mustard vinaigrette.

The starters were followed by the "pause paradis"--basically West Indian granita. The sweet and tangy fruit sorbet cleanses the palate so your taste buds are ready to appreciate the next dish.

There was more magic in the main courses. The seafood was masterfully cooked in my tower of enormous shrimp from Sept Iles surrounded by huge scallops from Iles de la Madeleine. Even things you wouldn't think of savouring were transformed into something special, like the pineapple rings layered among the crustaceans. A tasty bouquet formed the plate's centrepiece: a Japanese celery-like veggie, spicy green garlic shoots and a nasturtium. All this was served atop a gratinée of small Gaspé shrimp, infinitely thin noodles and a hint of Thai spice.

The presentation lived up to the performance of the other main course too. A cone of filo held a secret stash of spiced spinach underneath it. A breast of guinea hen was stuffed with wild rice and a mousse of foie gras cooked in white truffle oil and lemon thyme. The hen was sliced into rounds and fanned out on a delectable sauce. There was also a potato-like purée under it all, but we never quite got to the bottom of what it was all about.

For dessert, my friend was blown away by his absolutely decadent "crème de la crème" caramel while I dug in to a creation that looked like a tiki teepee. We both had a case of perma-grin by the end of the evening, and the smiles stayed with us long after we left.

Le Paradis des Amis

Address: 1751 Fullum

Phone: 525-6861

Hours: Mon-Fr. 11am-3pm & 5:30-9pm; Sat 5pm-11pm; closed Sun

Best features: just go!

Vegetarian friendly: fish

Credit cards: yes

Wheelchair access: no

Alcohol: yes

Price: $30/person before tax, drinks or tip

Rating: HHHH out of HHHH