Cod save the queen

Fish and chips off the old block at Mommy's

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

A visit to Mommy's Fish & Chips is almost like stepping onto the set of Coronation Street. This Verdun restaurant is more Scottish than British and the clientele is mostly mulletted locals, but it still serves up the staple food of the U.K. working class as though cholesterol was never discovered. The no-frills atmosphere and the constant sizzle of the deep fryer add an air of authenticity, even if take-out orders aren't wrapped in newspaper anymore.

The catch of choice here is cod, battered and cooked at high heat until the exterior takes on a golden hue. Pre-coated pieces are piled high just waiting to take the plunge into bubbling oil so they will be fresh and crisp when served. Cod meat is denser and heavier than other types of fish, releasing some moisture and probably some grease when you cut into it. Served with a lemon wedge and creamy tartar sauce, it's the ultimate in comfort food.

The accompanying french fries wouldn't quite qualify as "chips" in the distinctively pale, soggy British sense. But these extremely fresh rough-cut potatoes will retain their form through the most liberal dousing of ketchup and vinegar (no curry sauce though). Plates come in small ($4.25) and large formats ($8.95), but the two-piece medium order ($6.85) is a good bet.

The menu also offers seafood platters, including scallops, clams and shrimp. We tried a large handful of delicious butterfly shrimp, tails emerging from a rough outer surface that kept the tenderness of the contents sealed in. A big slice of lemon and a teeny container of cocktail sauce were served on the side, along with a generous helping of fries ($8).

For a soup and sandwich option, the chowder comes steaming hot in little styrofoam cups and tastes like it's been made with care. The base was creamy and almost gelatinous, liberally sprinkled with clams and chunks of potato ($2.25). It can be paired with three kinds of seafood burgers: breaded scallops, whitefish or salmon. This last was a square patty with a crunchy coating on the outside and firm pink filet inside, served in a sesame bun with loosely chopped coleslaw and tartar sauce ($3.95).

We all shared a side order of onion rings so enormous they should've been called onion bracelets ($1.75). The thick, translucent slices were encased in a light batter that was appropriately oily. This may have been what put me over the edge: on the way home on the metro I started seeing spots in front of my eyes.

To round out the meal, there are some interesting soda pops from across the sea: dandelion and burdock (ask for a D&B) tastes like an herbal root beer, while the more familiar ginger beer kicks you in the back of the throat. Better yet, opt for an imported beer like Bass or Newcastle, and let the alcohol thin your blood, counteracting the grease that is hardening those arteries at an alarming rate.

Mommy's décor is limited to plastic seating, neon lights and a bunch of tartan tea towels stuck to the walls, depicting bagpipes, maps of Scotland and a poem called "The Wild Hairy Haggis." In fact, there are also quite a few specialties "from the old country" on the menu ranging from Scottish meat pie and Batchelors mushy peas to black pudding, which is traditionally made of sheep's blood, suet, oatmeal and onions. We passed on these regional treats this time, but we do plan to go back during the winter for a healthy dose of fresh, raw oysters from New Brunswick, in season until March. :

Mommy's Fish & Chips

651 de l'Église, Verdun

Phone: 762-1294

Hours: Mon-Wed 11:30am-7:30pm; Thurs & Fri 11am-9pm; Sat 12-9pm; closed Sun

Best features: it's the real thing

Vegetarian friendly: no

Credit cards: no

Wheelchair access: two steps up

Alcohol: yes

Price: $8/person before tax, drinks or tip

Rating: HH out of HHHH