Buena vista social club

Spanish centre offers authentic tastes in old-school digs

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

Sometimes when someone recommends a restaurant to me, they quickly add, "but don't write about it, I don't want everyone to go and ruin it!" In the case of the Centre Social Espagnol, you get the feeling the management doesn't want other people going there and ruining it. And so far, it has remained wonderfully unfazed by trendiness, despite its Plateau location.

But since this community centre has recently been hosting music shows upstairs, I figure the first-floor restaurant is no longer deserving of "well kept secret" status. If you've been to a concert, you'll recognize the two waiters as the men in vests and bowties behind the bar. They're both a little distant, but actually quite nice once you manage to make eye contact.

The resto embodies all that was once meant by dining room: stucco walls, napkins arranged in peaks and two layers of tablecloths. It really feels like a family restaurant in Spain, down to the zany antics of Spanish sitcoms playing on the wall-mounted TV screen and a fuzbol table by the entrance.

On the night we visited, there was a live flamenco performance that coincides with the weekly paella special (every Tuesday), which gets you the house dish, salad and dessert for $10. A great deal for a meal and entertainment.

The paella de casa was served in a metal dish and consisted of fragrant rice, pieces of delicious chicken, shrimp, mussels, calamari and a bit of smoky chorizo sausage thrown in to spice it up. It was one of the better paellas I've sampled, with rich flavours and an almost crisp but moist texture.

The seafood casserole, called zarzuela de mariscos ($16.50), was steaming hot and overflowing. It contained two generous pieces of lobster in the shell (a little chewy but very tasty), lots of mussels, one clam, big and small shrimp, and underneath it all, two slices of marlin fish. There was also a liberal amount of calamari, but mostly just legs that weren't that appealing to chase around with a fork. The whole thing was simmered in a mild broth, with plenty of garlic and maybe some white wine. The waiter did mention that this stew-like dish wasn't served with any accompaniment, and although it was satisfying I sort of missed rice or potatoes to round it out.

You could also create a tapas-style meal out of the items on the appetizer section of the menu. We tried the champigñones al ajillo ($5.95), plump, nicely cooked mushrooms and a whole lot of minced garlic. We also sampled the gambas a la plancha ($7.50). The grilled shrimp were humongous and served with a simple wedge of lemon. Be warned that they come fully clothed, so you will have to strip them of their shells and heads before eating. Other entradas include grilled chorizo (hot or cold), cheese, serrano ham, tripe, grilled sardines and mussels. They all run between $5-8, and are great for sharing.

We never did get our salad, which seems to be served after the meal. We figured it was just an oversight and we were too wimpy to say anything when one of the waiters whisked over, in a sudden display of efficiency, and presented us each with a crème caramel in a plastic container. The custardy dessert went well with the coffee, which, he warned us challengingly, "is very strong."

The whole evening was a lot of fun, and I would definitely go back. Beer is cheap too--at $2.50 a bottle, this social club should have you feel pretty sociable in no time.

Centre Social Espagnol

Address: 4848 St-Laurent

Phone: 844-4227

Hours: noon till "whenever," closed Wed

Best features: Seafood, old-school ambiance

Vegetarian friendly: no (seafood)

Wheelchair access: no

Alcohol: yes

Credit cards: no

Price: $15/person before drinks, tax & tip

Rating: HHH out of HHHH