Stomach rumble in the jungle

Souvenirs d'Afrique satisfies a taste for the tropical

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

When I saw the cartoons of giraffes and elephants on the menu outside, I was worried that this restaurant would be a hokey Mutual of Omaha kind of place. But once I entered, it was immediately obvious that Souvenirs d'Afrique is the real thing, serving genuine food that's genuinely good.

The menu aims to be a "homage to the women of the continent," based on recipes that have been handed down from generation to generation. The countries of origin--Senegal, Mali, Kenya, the Seychelles, the Ivory Coast--are specified next to the dishes on offer. Using an array of equatorial ingredients like dates, mangos, vanilla, cloves, coriander, coconut milk and ginger, pretty much everything listed is tantalizing (even some of the stranger concoctions, like marinated herring and apples hailing from Cape Town).

We couldn't resist one of the more standard appetizers: a bowl of fried plantains ($5.50). The plump banana-like pieces were caramelized with a sticky sweet brown exterior and sprinkled with sesame seeds. They came with a delicious "tropical" sauce that was tangy and rich with a mouth-watering hint of spice. We had also wanted to start with the lamberèné fish, partly because it was described as "little tiny breaded fishes," but word came back from the kitchen that they were all out. In their place we opted for the fish pastels, which were actually "little tiny" roties stuffed with a mild fish and vegetable mixture ($5.50). These crusty patties were fantastic dipped in some of that same tropical sauce.

For the main course, I tried the chicken yassa ($15.75), marinated in lemon and served in a tasty sauce of olives, peppers and onions. This well-known Senegalese dish has a particular and inimitable flavour, where lots of elements work on your tongue at the same time. The presentation was just as intriguing. The plate looked like a landscape, with a centrepiece of a perfectly grilled chicken breast, flanked by a cone of rice resembling a tent and a few hills of vegetables in the background.

Knowing I was footing the bill, my companion splurged on a filet mignon with Mombassa sauce (topping the price list at $20.75). Out of respect for the natural flavours of the meat, the chef served this beautiful thick steak on top of the pungent goat cheese sauce rather than risk masking it underneath. The dish was accompanied by a handful of giant manioc chips striated with purple, and a helping of delectable sweet potato. A clove of garlic baked to sweetness and a red onion cooked until just translucent added to the many tastes of this well thought-out offering.

For dessert, we finished up with a lemon flan and a pot of vanilla tea from Mauritius in a decorative glass.

There's a great selection of South African wines (even palm wines), but be sure to sample the beers on tap, particularly one called Geba. Perfumed with what I think was orange blossoms, it was so aromatic that I wanted to inhale the glass on the first sip. The heady aftertaste lingered just long enough for me to order another one to prolong the experience.

Souvenirs D'Afrique's exquisite food and drink has already found a loyal clientele--a heart-warming mix of black and white patrons overflow from the tables on most nights. The atmosphere is enhanced by artefacts and photos of African luminaries lining the brick walls and an extremely welcoming staff. All in all, it makes for the kind of evening memories are made of.

Souvenirs d'Afrique

Address: 844 Mont-Royal E.

Phone: 598-8181

Hours: Mon 5-10pm; Tues-Wed, Sun 5-10:30pm; Thurs 5-11pm; Fri-Sat 5-11:30pm; Brunch Sat-Sun 9am-3pm

Best features: exquisite and exotic flavours, friendly ambiance

Vegetarian friendly: so-so

Wheelchair access: yes

Alcohol: yes

Credit cards: Visa & Interac

Price: $20/person without tax, drinks or tip

Rating: HHHH out of HHHH