Asian invasion

The new Plateau Chinatown is fast, clean and cheap

by SPANKY HOROWITZ

Once upon a sausage you couldn't walk a karnatzel's length of St-Laurent near des Pins without schtupping an Eastern European food shop or deli. Where salamis and briskets once hung from the ceilings, there are now woks and ladles dangling in their places. In fact, so many Asian resto owners and their cooks have migrated north from Chinatown that there are now 10 Asian restos on the same block.

Fuji Sushi and Ginger are on des Pins just east of the Main, while on St-Laurent, just below or above des Pins, are Maison Thai, Parfums d'Asie, Gourmet d'Orient, Thai Express, Bamboo, Just Noodles, Sushi & Dumplings and last, but certainly not least, Restaurant Flaming Delight.

There's no way I can possibly describe all 10 restos in just one column, and a 10-week mini-series on the new Chinatown would be a little tedious--like Roots, but for Chinese food. What I can tell you is that I've tried 'em all and they are fast, clean and cheap. Many have open kitchens where you can see firsthand that there are no health-code violations, plus you can watch the cooks preparing your food. Out of them all, I personally prefer the Flaming Delight; cool name, good food, and it's cheap.

Although it lacks the trendy peach-coloured leather banquettes of Bamboo or the high prices of Ginger, the Flaming Delight easily surpasses the fast-food look and greasy cuisine of a Just Noodles franchise. Plus, they have a liquor license featuring sake and beers from Japan and China, they deliver and the taxes are already worked into the prices!

My baptism to the Flaming Delight was provided by Welch's bookstore clerk and fellow glutton Howard Chakowicz, who was ordering in while on the job. We very much enjoyed the Cantonese Chow Mein ($6), loaded with fresh shrimp and pieces of pork and chicken, but even more so the Yu Hsiang Eggplant. Take note that most dishes are available à la carte for $8 or you can get a single, yet large, portion with rice for only $6.

The pieces of Chinese eggplant (those purple thin ones) are deep-fried and then coated in Yu-Hsiang sauce, which even the owner could not (or would not) accurately describe. I would characterize it as one of those delicious, dark brown, slightly spicy sauces that I can never duplicate in my own wok, but which experienced Chinese cooks churn out like a '70s housewife makin' Kraft Dinner.

The salt and pepper squid is a pure delight. A large mound of tender squid is breaded in a piquant batter and fried to crispness, obviously relying heavily on the use of the two most used but taken-for-granted spices: salt and pepper. Each piece is dry and crisp on the outside, yet moist and tender on the inside. If squid isn't for you, the salt 'n' peppa thang is also available with pork, chicken, tofu or seafood. Breaded and deep fried tastes good on anything.

A great item on the menu is the Dim Sum for Two. For $19, you get four each of the spring rolls, steamed shrimp dumplings, steamed pork/shrimp/vegetable dumplings, fried pork dumplings, steamed ginger/pork dumplings as well as two sticky-rice packets wrapped in lotus leaves. That's 22 pieces for $19, no tax, and these are fantastic dumplings. I ordered them to my home and they arrived steaming hot!

If you want Asian food and want to eat on the Plateau, just head to the new Chinatown, but please don't forget the old one! :

Comments: foodspanky@hotmail.com

Flaming Delight

Address: 3671 St-Laurent

Phone: 987-6868

Hours: Sun-Wed 11am-midnight; Thu-Sat 11am-4am

Best features: Cheap Chinese food, Dim Sum for Two, delivery

Vegetarian friendly: yes

Wheelchair access: yes

Alcohol: yes

Credit cards: yes

Price: $5-15 per person, including taxes, excluding drinks and tip

Rating: HHH out of HHHH