No hurlin' at Hurley's

Just good Guinness and great Irish eats at this authentic pub

by SPANKY HOROWITZ

Okay, so I didn't hurl at Hurley's. Recently. It was back in the mid-'80s, when I shouldn't have been allowed to set foot in Hurley's Irish Pub, or any bar for that matter, that I last drank more beer than my body could handle. And I did hurl. But this column is concerned only with objects that enter our bodies, so let us focus on my more recent visits to Hurley's, and discuss the food.

For many folks, Irish pubs are set aside for St-Paddy's day, when the beer is dyed shamrock green and everybody gets wasted. It shouldn't be this way. The other 364 days that fill our calendar are just as worthy--and you'd probably get a better seat.

At Hurley's, named for its owner, Bill Hurley, who is a regular fixture at the pub, there are over a dozen beers on tap, of which no less than five hail from Ireland. There's also a dazzling array of Irish whiskies. You can even surf Hurley's Web site (listed below) for a detailed list that includes descriptions of each whisky. I must say that I prefer Guinness to anything else, when I can afford it. There's nothing like pushing your upper lip through the head of a pint of Guinness, but I did have to allocate some of my budget toward food. The starters on the menu are strictly pub fare with nary a trace of Ireland, except perhaps the excellent curry and chips ($4), in which a decent curry sauce is poured onto a heap of french fries. The salad selection is as generic as the starters, but necessary if you're a vegetarian or saving space for several pints of stout. It's when you get to the bulk of the menu that the lucky charms show themselves.

I was almost bored by the sandwich board, until I noticed a classic beef dip and the "bookie's special" (both $7.50). The beef dip is pretty straightforward and pretty messy, but the "bookie's special" is a monster of grilled sirloin, onions and melted cheese. Paired up with a pint of Guinness, you definitely won't walk away unsatisfied. In fact, you may not be able to walk away at all.

The rest of the menu is what truly sets Hurley's a blarney's stone apart from any other downtown pub. Guinness beef stew, Irish Mist lamb stew and chicken St-Ambroise (all $9) all employ fresh beef, lamb or chicken breast stewed in a hearty, boozy sauce. The standout is the chicken, which was served under a cream-based sauce flavoured with pepper, mustard and, of course, beer. The Hurley's chicken is a variation of the chicken St-Ambroise, but served on a bed of colcannon, an authentic Irish specialty typically made from potatoes and cabbage.

If that doesn't sound hearty, just check out the "Hearty Fare" section of the menu. Tender and thick roast beef or lamb, sausages and sirloin steak (a favourite of Bill Hurley's) fill out this extravagant pub menu.

If you happen to wander in on a Friday, as I sometimes do, you'll find fish 'n' chips on the menu, made fresh just one day a week. They also serve breakfast every morning, featuring my favourite: Hurley's Fry-up. For $5.50, you get two eggs, bacon, a homemade sausage patty, hash browns, fried tomato and fried bread with toast and coffee. Now that's a start to a great day.

Don't wait until St-Paddy's day to visit Hurley's Irish Pub. You can find great food, great booze and live Irish music every night of the year. Slainte!

Hurley's Irish pub

Address: 1225 Crescent

Phone: 861-4111

Hours: the kitchen is open daily 10am-10pm

Best features: a real Irish pub with real Irish food, music and Guinness draught

Vegetarian friendly: yes

Wheelchair access: some stairs

Alcohol: yes

Credit cards: yes

Price: $4-12 per person, before drinks, taxes and tip

Web site: www.hurleysirishpub.com

Rating: HHH out of HHHH