Fur in the far north

>> Nunavut turns to Montreal designer Véronique Miljkovitch for tips of the trade

by JOANNE LATIMER

Designer Véronique Miljkovitch, an emerging figure on the Canadian fur scene, will be packing up the tools of her trade and venturing to Nunavut. As part of the Nunavut Sealing Strategy, Miljkovitch will be giving a six-day workshop to local fur designers in Iqaluit at the end of March. The idea is to help improve Nunavut's seal coat production.

And in an unusual twist, the initiative is actually condoned by anti-sealing protesters. "Nunavut, where they hunt ringed seals, is facing legitimate issues of economic diversification and sustainability," says Dr. Rick Smith, national director of the International Fund for Animal Welfare. Smith and his colleagues are currently in Charlottetown, watch-dogging the commercial hunt for baby harp seals. "It's a different issue than in Newfoundland. We don't oppose subsistence hunting by Aboriginals or anyone."

Nunavut, Canada's fledgling territory, is in financial trouble, according to reports by Nunavut Finance Minister Kelvin Ng. The sealing strategy is considered an important part of building a stable economy, and the Nunavut Inuit Fur Collection needs to compete in foreign fashion markets if it wants to gain a toehold. "Because of the American [Marine] Mammal [Protection] Act, it's illegal to sell seal coats in the United States, but it's legal in Europe," says Teresa Eloy, from the Fur Council. "Nunavut wants to appeal to that market, and since Miljkovitch is known for the rustic and native aspects in her style, she's a good fit for the Nunavut project."

The idea is for Miljkovitch to introduce subtle design elements that have more appeal to the international design community, explains Larry Simpson, the Senior Adviser for Fisheries and Sealing at Nunavut's Department of Sustainable Development. She'll be adding more fashionable aspects without compromising the coats' traditional look.

Official collaboration between Nunavut and Montreal fur designers began four years ago, when Montreal-based fur veteran Ingo Moslener was hired as a consultant to help Nunavut furriers modernize their production techniques. This year he invited Miljkovitch.

"We introduced modern knives, blades and machines," explains Moslener. "We also made the coats a bit lighter weight. We'll be adding fashionable colours and mixing some knits into the designs."

The five designers from Nunavut who exhibited at last year's North American Fur and Fashion Exhibition enjoyed good reviews, despite industry-wide anti-sealing protests. "Because I'm from Northern Ontario, I didn't grow up thinking of fur as a negative thing," admits Miljkovitch. "In Nunavut, the seal hunt is about survival. They live off seal meat and fur is just a by-product." Nunavut communities hunt adult ringed seals, not baby harp seals.

Miljkovitch emerged on the design scene after graduating from LaSalle College in 1992, at which time she won a grant to study at the prestigious SAGA International Design Centre in Copenhagen. Since then, she has wracked up numerous industry prizes. From her atelier on Ste-Catherine, Miljkovitch adds her thoughts on fur and fashion: "I hate the idea of fur as something for rich people, something that goes with diamonds and high heels. It's a mistake to play up the glamour."