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Denis Gagnon constructs clothing for crazy urban cowboys
by GENEVIEVE PAIEMENT
Denis Gagnon is surrounded by racks of pastel-painted pants, billowing silk blouses cut into ribbons at the waist, embroidered leather chaps, slit leather belts that double as bustiers, undetermined, feathered body accessories and open-toe elf-boots. Standing in his unassuming downtown atelier-apartment just south of the Molson Centre, the menswear designer is volunteering his take on fashion gender biases. "I find the rules that dictate femininity and masculinity are constraining and too obsessive," says Gagnon, perhaps partly in explanation of his leather garter belts for men. "They stop us from being fully creative."
His Spring/Summer 2001 collection, the fruits of a six-month labour, is poised to work its magic at a fashion show the following week. Gagnon's collection certainly reflects his gender-bending frivolity. The feminine touches are balanced out by a certain craggy maleness that conjures up visions of sci-fi cowboys secure enough in their masculinity to wear a skirt or bear their bottoms in chaps and not feel completely fetishized. "Men are more open to flamboyant fashions now," says Gagnon. "Before, certain styles of clothing could be called homosexual, but now we don't need to label things or be afraid to look a certain way. The younger generation understands this."
True, real men, young and old, have been wearing pink for quite some time now and they seem to be less and less afraid of stepping out of the constrictive, cookie-cutter streetwear mould. But for a lot of more conservative men, the suit still rules the roost. Something Gagnon naturally finds rather alien. "When I see men in suits and ties, I think 'What club are they a part of? Can't we get out of this?!' We've still got a long way to go." And whether or not the suit club is ready for Gagnon's vanguard vision of masculine style, we'll just have to wait and see.
This lack of commercial draw doesn't seem to bother Gagnon one bit--he appears to enjoy walking the tightrope between commercial designer and out-there artiste. "Half the collection could be sold," he explains, "and half is just for the show."
In keeping with his impish flare for fun and theatrics, the show itself, that minutes-long, rushed parade of months of hard work, is paramount. "If my work can inspire others to create, to design, than I have to do it. I invite all kinds of people to drop by for a drink. I love hosting! If I had more money, I'd do shows more often. My goal in life is not to have a BMW. I just want to do what I love and live from it."
And if the collection doesn't sell, Gagnon's got a backup plan. "I made my clothing to fit me, or just a bit bigger," he flashes a mischievous grin. "This way, if they don't sell, at least I can wear them."
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