Khyber space

Explore the peaks of Afghan cuisine at a cozy Duluth eatery

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

According to the menu at Khyber Pass, the restaurant is named for a historical mountain passage that has been "crossed by such celebrities as Genghis Kahn, Alexander the Great and Marco Polo." The fact that these stars of yesteryear didn't linger in Afghanistan is certainly not a reflection of the region's food. Its cuisine hints at the best tastes and textures of its neighbours--Pakistan, Iran, Tibet and China--while spotlighting grilled meats and simmered stews suited to the country's own rugged landscape and nomadic past.

Since moving to Duluth a few years ago, Montreal's only Afghan eatery has maintained its welcoming ambiance, a reminder of the good aspects of a country that has suffered (and still is) its share of heart-break. The walls are hung with Oriental rugs and photos of camels, wooden beams divide various areas and there's even a couch where patrons can dump their coats as though attending a house party. To add to the homey feel, the owner mills about wearing a vest that looks like an intricately woven cushion cover.

To start, you'll get a basket full of dense, chapati-like bread with three sauces--peppery yogurt, refreshing green coriander and tangy red pepper--that remain on the table throughout the meal.

It's worth dipping into the soups for the full Afghan experience ($3.95). One is a pungent red lentil concoction similar to dhal with a muskier, meatier taste. The other is a hearty bowl of noodles, beef and peas in a thick broth infused with a lemony coriander flavour and topped with yogurt.

To further whet the appetite there are all sorts of intriguing appetizers ($4.95), including three types of dumplings (described as stuffed pasta). The generous plateful of beef- and onion-filled steamed pot stickers was fresh, light and mild. Although they were topped with freezer-friendly veggies, that didn't detract from the fluffy, just-homemade quality. Even more of an unexpected delight was the bonami citrouille, which had been recommended by a friend. The slices of fried pumpkin are doused in an unusual sauce that tastes of cardamom, ginger and chillies. It was like the best of Indian spice tea and Halloween mixed together.

There's a lot of meat on the menu, and we wound up sampling two different lamb dishes. I ordered the chops, but was served the lamb brochette. My companion ordered the chicken kabuli palaw which, when teased out from under the rice, turned out to be simmered lamb served on the bone in a shape that resembled a chicken leg! After a brief discussion with the apologetic waiter, we just decided it was meant to be and enjoyed the delicious bounty before us.

The grilled brochette was served with three different kinds of basmati rice. One spoonful was the distinctive cardamom green, the next was white and garlicky and the final was brown with a strong scent of cumin. The meat itself was exquisitely spiced and well cooked, surprisingly tender considering that the cubes were very firm under the knife.

The slow-cooked lamb palaw was served with a large helping of wonderfully spiced brown basmati dotted with raisins and shredded carrot that provided a healthy sweetness to offset the meat. This generous plate, like the brochette, was accompanied by a small side salad.

For less than $20, the table d'hôte allows you to try all these courses plus tea or coffee and a creamy dessert of cardamom-flavoured pudding. Vegetarians will find a mixed platter containing spinach, eggplant, gumbo, cauliflower and much more "cooked the Afghan way" for $11.95.

We left Khyber Pass feeling fortified, sure that even the stomach of a celebrity like Genghis Kahn could have be conquered by a meal like this.

Khyber Pass

Address: 506 Duluth E.

Phone: 844-7131

Hours: 5-11pm

Best features: unusual spicing, meats, exotic and homey atmosphere

Vegetarian friendly: yes

Credit cards: yes

Wheelchair access: three steps up

Alcohol: BYOB

Price: $20/person without drinks & tip
Rating: HHH 1/2 out of HHHH