Restaurant recount

Our critics' votes are in on eating out

SARAH MUSGRAVE's picks

Les Délices de l'île Maurice

Food from tropical Mauritius in an exotic Verdun setting. Worth a trip for unusual flavours that hint at the ethnic diversity of this island in the Indian Ocean. Fish, lamb, chicken in a variety of sauces: curry, Créole, Cajun, Chinese, saffron etc. The fried cabbage appetizer is mandatory, as is a discussion with Sylvestre, the effusive owner of this incredibly cheap neighbourhood favourite. (272 Hickson, 768-6023)



Area

This new, intimate space is not only a designer's dream, it's also one of the few Village establishments where the décor looks as good as the food and the food looks as good as it tastes. The imaginative chef/caterers don't skimp on primo ingredients in unusual combinations like a salad of fresh roasted hazelnuts and tender calamari rings, or chicken breast with pistachio paste. Desserts are equally scrumptious. (1429 Amherst, 890-6691)



Casa Tapas

This summer saw the tasteful expansion of this popular Plateau eatery, to better accommodate the masses in need of wine and tasty Spanish treats. Create your own meal from a variety of dishes, from simple to simmered: shrimp croquettes, chorizo sausage or chicken with sherry are all delicious. Euro in a good way. (266 Rachel E., 848-1063)



Jardin Tiki

I have a soft spot for novelty acts, so this place rates high on my list of Montreal must-eats. It's all about the Polynesian pop décor: a turtle pond, creaky rattan chairs and tropical drinks welcome you to this East-End timewarp. The all-you-can eat buffet melds suburban Chinese fare with office party food (pineapple chicken, cocktail weenies, roast beef, egg rolls) but the supply is bountiful, including a self-serve ice cream dispenser for dessert. (5300 Sherbrooke E., 254-4173)



Iza Bistro-Traiteur

Affordable, authentic Mexican where you'd least expect to find it. Cozy corner joint offers caringly made standards without fuss, including a just-mashed guacamole, shrimp ceviche and a piping hot enchilada trio slathered with tangy tomato sauce and stuffed with veggies, chicken and beef. (1001 Ontario E., 890-1015)

SPANKY HOROWITZ's picks

Nantha's Cuisine

Even though I haven't reviewed it, this hot & spicy Malaysian/Thai eatery owned by immortal scenester/sex-god Nantha Kumar is on my list. Nantha is a genuine Montreal success story. He started at the Copa and eventually got his own space up the block. He serves a mean Otak (white-fish blended with lemongrass, chili, coconut and turmeric steamed in a banana-leaf) and you can even buy his Miracle Curry Powder (or make a reservation) directly from his Web site at www.nanthascuisine.com. (9 Duluth E., 845-4717)



Maïko Sushi

I haven't quite acquired a taste for raw fish, but I do appreciate and enjoy the mingling of flavours and textures created by rolling cooked fish, veggies and rice in a sheet of dehydrated seaweed and then dipping it into soy-sauce laced with Japanese horseradish. Maïko has an affordable lunch menu and I absolutely recommend the spicy-teriyaki salmon roll, usually served as the chef's choice. (387 Bernard W., 490-1225)



Spirite Lounge

If you want to have fun while eating, check-in to this Barbarellaesque vegetarian fixed-menu village institution--and I mean the kind of institution they put you in! This spaceship, complete with orgasmatron, keeps track of what you eat and serves you something different each time you visit. If you fail to eat your plate clean, be prepared to pay a surcharge of $2, which goes to charity. I recommend bringing your parents. (1201 Ontario E., 524-5264)



Pêche Délice

Even though I've never been to China, this is the closest thing that resembles what I think would be a Chinese restaurant for Chinese people in China. The menu is confusing, but you can stick to the dim-sun until you figure it out. Or, if you just want a snack, grab a tray at the front and load it up with home-baked doughnuts. They've got regular Tim-Hortons-style donuts, or you can try a pork-filled sticky-bun. On your way out, pick up some dumplings to go. (73 de la Gauchetière W., 817-8388)



Tasty Food Pizza Parlour

This Montreal landmark opened in the '50s, burnt down, moved and rebuilt, closed, reopened, got bombed, rebuilt, got bombed, rebuilt, reopened. The owner is still the same, as are the cooks, waitresses, drivers and, of course, the recipes. They only offer individual-sized pizzas and a few token snacks, but you'll go back again and again. Don't forget to take a peek at the photo collection of the Décarie expressway--they've got it with horses, then with cars, then with a sunken expressway, then filled with water during the flood of 1987. If you don't know what to order, get the pepperoni, extra well-done. Mmmmm. (6660 Décarie, 739-1721)