Taco belle

If you're looking for authentic Mexican fare, Iza does it

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

Since my last trip to Mexico far too long ago, I have been searching for the real enchilada here in Montreal. A place free of talking chihuahuas, bottles of hot sauce emblazoned with the word "suicide" and college students in sombreros serving soggy tacos that contain a dimebag of beef.

Iza Bistro-Traiteur is a little corner joint overlooking a rather desolate--or should I say "developing"--area of Ontario street. I've passed by a few times with nary a second glance, except to wonder if the taped-up window was the result of an errant bullet. I decided to try it for lunch on a depressing day and left considerably cheered and filled to the brim with genuine Mexican food.

Despite the downtrodden exterior, the place is cozy and welcoming. A fan turns slowly overhead, keeping time with the strains of Latino music. The terracotta floor leads to a long bar overlooking the kitchen area, flanked by a beautiful armoire filled with glass shining in the sunlight. In the back is a colourful mural depicting paisanos at work on a street that seems to be paved with tortillas.

Your hard-earned pesos will go a long way here: very little on the menu costs more than a tenner, including standard fare like fajitas and burritos, as well as more intriguing dishes such as a crustacean ceviche ($5.75) of raw shrimp, tomatoes, onions, coriander and lime. Also tempting was the veggie enchilada ($8.25), containing a medley of peppers, eggplant, mushrooms, cilantro and onions, rolled in a flour tortilla and served with melted cheese. Most plates come with rice, beans and pico del gallo (rooster's beak) salad, a refreshing combo of diced cucumber, shredded lettuce and cilantro.

Shortly after we ordered a guacamole appetizer ($3.50), I could hear the sounds of pounding from the kitchen. When the incredibly fresh dish arrived, I deduced that it must be mashed on the fly in individual portions. It was light and citrusy, with finely diced tomatoes and fresh coriander punctuating the perfectly ripe avocado. Presented with a basket of crackling corn nachos, it was undoubtedly the best guacamole I've had in ages.

For less than $10, you can also gorge yourself on several offerings from the table d'hôte. The daily specials are served with soup, in this case a simple chicken and rice concoction--not particularly flavourful but hearty and comforting as good homemade broth should be. My choice of antojito Iza ($7.75) was a trio of enchiladas stuffed with chicken, beef and vegetables. Each one was decorated whimsically with a different pattern of sour cream. The platter was swimming in a tasty tomato sauce that set off the various savoury stuffings, with an island of rice in the middle and a small helping of greens on the side.

The tacos de res from the regular menu ($6.95) are not hard-shell scoops, but instead served in the traditional soft shell corn tortillas, containing chunks of beef rather than of ground meat. The sauce here was spicier and tangy, accompanied by a portion of excellent black beans that had a slightly smoky taste.

Iza is equally generous with its drinks. The lunch menu featured two Molson Drys for $6 and in the evening there's a whole host of alcoholic beverages to sample, from sangria to daiquiris.

For dessert we tried the flan ($2.95), a custard similar to crème caramel, served in an individual pot. It was light and creamy, doused in a sweet syrupy sauce. For the more adventurous, there's banana flambéed in tequila to set your mouth on fire.

Iza Bistro-Traiteur

Address: 1001 Ontario E.

Phone: 890-1015

Hours: Tues-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30-10:30pm; Sat & Sun 5:30-10:30pm; closed Mon

Alcohol: yes

Best features: authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, cheap fare

Credit cards: cash only

Vegetarian friendly: yes

Wheelchair access: one step up

Price: $10/person before tax, tip and drinks

Rating: HHH1/2 out of HHHH