Get bento!

Try thinking inside the box at these two Japanese joints

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

It takes a certain amount of audacity to open yet another Asian restaurant in Montreal these days. Noodles and sushi may be a winning formula, but there comes a point when the market is oversaturated with soya sauce. Unless perhaps you have something a little different to offer... something healthy yet gimmicky.

Bento, the Japanese meal in a box, fits that bill perfectly. Similar to an airplane meal in presentation, the food is served in various compartments of a square container that can be used for everything from a takeout lunch to a well-balanced supper. Bento specials usually start with miso soup and include a sampling of sushi, vegetables and other house dishes. I recently discovered a couple of places in town that offer this geometric dining option.

Wakamono

Located in the eastern Plateau, Wakamono was launched a couple of months ago by the owners of the equally slick Primadonna restaurant on St-Laurent. Although it's billed as a sushi bar/noodle emporium, you'll find three choices of bento on the menu (in lieu of a table d'hôte). These combination platters are a great way to taste some of the resto's finest dishes, and they are as beautifully presented as dark wood and white leather surroundings.

Wakamono's bento meals all start with a musky, dusky miso soup, soft cubes of fresh tofu and peppery shallots floating in the broth. Then the black lacquer-style box arrives, consisting of five sections filled with the familiar and the unusual. One staple is kobachimono, braised vegetable dishes chosen at the chef's discretion, ranging from shredded daikon (japanese radish) to sweet marinated soya beans.

A highlight of the take bento ($14.50) is the fried chicken croquettes marinated in sake, served with a creamy soya and cayenne sauce. The meal is anchored by an equally delicious serving of yake harasame: translucent noodles, bite-sized pieces of beef and a medley of shredded veggies. It also includes a sushi fix, with your own wasabi mound and a built-in slot for the pickled ginger.

The matsu bento ($15.50) features attractive tuna and salmon sashimi, accompanied by a butterfly shrimp and zucchini tempura with a side bowl of dipping sauce. The noodle entry is yaki ramen, consisting of chicken, kamaboko, soya, shallots, red ginger and dried seaweed. Unfortunately, the thick udon noodles had a washed-out taste and there was not a trace of meat to be found, but I would give it another chance.

After all that, you'll want to stray outside the box for yummy desserts like green tea ice cream and rice cake dumplings.

O-Bentò

O-Bentò on Guy has its own, more no-frills version of the Japanese lunchbox. Open for about a year, this hidden downstairs space has bright yellow walls, cheerful lanterns and a very cute sushi chef. While it's not as high-end as Wakamono, it has an authentic feel and affordable, healthy meals. In addition to three kinds of bento, you'll find an assortment of sushi, curries and noodles on offer.

The lunch menu offers deep-fried chicken, beef teriyaki or tempura bento, served with a simple miso soup (all about $8). I opted for the tempura platter, which consisted of two juicy shrimps, zucchini, carrot and green pepper encased in a fresh, fluffy batter. Other compartments contained a lettuce and carrot salad with a dense lemon dressing, steamed carrots in a thick tangy sauce and white rice sprinkled with sesame seeds. The accompanying sushi roll of avocado, crabstick, roe and cucumber was excellent, especially when washed down with my own personal pot of piping hot tea.

Wakamono

Address: 1251 Mont-Royal E

Phone: 527-2747

Hours: Open Sun-Wed 5-10pm, Thurs-Sat 5-11pm

Alcohol: Alcohol license

Price: Expect to pay at least $18 per person before tax, drinks & tip

O-Bentò

Address: 1237 Guy below Ste-Catherine

Phone: 931-0388

Hours: Open 11:30-2pm & 4-10pm on weekdays; Sat 5-10pm, closed Sun

Alcohol: Alcohol license

Price: It'll cost you about $10 per person before tax, drinks & tip