Area of expertise

Enjoy masters at work in a refined Village resto

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

When you first peek through the window, it's hard to believe that Area is a real restaurant--it looks too perfect. The decor, fusing the best of Asian angularity and Swedish simplicity, would make Wallpaper's Tyler Brulé proud. The creamy banquettes, lemons nestled in plates of sand and serene lighting couldn't be more of a contrast to the hustle and bustle outside. "Very feng shui," my companion commented as we entered this new addition to the Amherst strip.

The food is as refined as the surroundings--and like the proprietors, prepare to spare no expense to get the most from your dining experience. It took us ages to decide what to order. Not only is the imaginative menu dauntingly divided into chaud, froid and sucré, but the descriptions read like mouth-watering haiku. From salmon and red tuna tartar to ricotta ravioli with smoked duck, all the dishes sounded intriguing.

My dinner guest opted for the mid-range table d'hote--offered at $25, $35 or $45--and was delighted with every aspect of her meal. It began with a "bouchée," in this case one large skewered shrimp in a light tempura batter, served in a bowl of tasty mango salsa. This was followed by a salad of new potatoes, julienned carrots, fresh chives, pine nuts and escargots braised in hazelnut oil. She proclaimed the snails to be the best she'd ever tasted.

Her main course of fresh striped bass had been seared so that the skin was slightly crispy, enclosing a melt-in-your-mouth fillet. It was presented atop an unusual purée of celeriac, accompanied by greens and a mysteriously tangy topping that appeared to be pickled plums.

I started with an à la carte choice of artichoke and calamari salad ($9). When I pushed aside the sprigs of Italian parsley, mild mint and thyme, I discovered copious amounts of fresh roasted hazelnuts and green beans along with tender squid and exquisite home-cooked artichoke.

The chicken breast with pistachio paste ($18) was equally generous. The meat was encircled with a tangy sauce, in which floated two different kinds of mushrooms, all set atop fluffy, herbed mashed potatoes. Both meals contained enough flavours to make each bite slightly different, depending on how you scooped up the ingredients.

Desserts were also a designed to please. The pot de creme au chocolat was an excellent semi-sweet pudding accompanied by ginger biscuits. My choice of fruit cafoulis ($6), a hot concoction of fresh berries baked into a cake-like dough, came with a side dish of creamy vanilla ice cream that melted into something like custard with each spoonful.

Area also boasts an intriguing wine list (some served by the glass), microbrewery beer and decent coffee to finish up. Even the milk is brought to the table in a geometric vase.

The service was pleasantly laid-back rather than snide or sycophantic as these upscale places can sometimes be. I caught glimpses of the kitchen where two handsome hipsters were silhouetted against a shocking red wall, a contrast to the tranquil dining area filling up with a well-heeled crowd. Owner/caterer Denis Lévesque and his chef have come up with dishes that are stunning to look at but also very real, fresh and surprisingly substantial. Presentation touches like pieces of Chinese paper on the plates, fresh toppings and colour combinations are not so fussy that you can't see the person across the table through the herb sprigs. And if you're tired of haute cuisine promising a flurry of fine ingredients only to have a few mouthfuls of enjoyment, Area will not leave you wanting more--except maybe a return trip. :

Area

Address: 1429 Amherst

Phone: 890-6691

Hours: 11:30am-2:30pm; 6-11pms

Best features: sumptuous flavours, imaginative menu and decor

Alcohol: yes

Vegetarian friendly: seafood

Credit cards: yes

Wheelchair access: one step up

price: $35/person without tax, drinks or tip

Rating: HHHH out of HHHH