Chicken run

Coq En Stock tries to redefine the rotisserie, in Caribbean stylee

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

It really doesn't help that Coq En Stock sounds like a discount poultry warehouse. And I'm sure the same misguided marketing genius who came up with this restaurant's name must also be responsible for its incongruous décor. Green- and orange-striped walls are complemented by Urban Outfitters beads, Van Houtte-style café tables and enormous yellow happy faces smiling ecstatically over the light fixtures. Add a reggae soundtrack to the ambiance and jerk chicken to the menu, and it's no wonder that as we sat there, lots of passersby squinted inside, shrugged and walked away.

Once you brave your way through the door, you'll find this Mont-Royal resto is like St-Hubert BBQ gone world-beat, an oddly appealing mixture of fast food and down-home cooking. The table d'hote tours the globe, with several stops in the Caribbean: chicken and mango salad, St. Lucia chicken leg, Jamaican coquelet and a chicken and basil risotto (all $8.95, including appetizer and coffee or tea).

To start, we tried the fried plantain "beignets" with satay sauce ($3.95). The dish was surprisingly good, consisting of two crispy, crunchy fritters and an authentic-tasting peanut dipping sauce. We also sampled the roasted asparagus and red pepper appetizer, a refreshingly simple plate of vegetables served cold and lightly drizzled with a tangy topping.

As for main courses, the basic premise is roasted chicken served with a variety of toppings. Far from the "sauce brune" you get at other rotisseries, sauces here include red curry and bamboo shoots, lemon, chilli and mango chutney and ginger with Asian mushrooms. The chicken is served with a choice of home fries, baked potatoes or rice and black beans. You get grilled bread and a bowl of sweet and spicy pickled onion on your plate too.

I had been anticipating the aforementioned jerk chicken, but was told it's not available on the regular menu anymore and that the Jamaican coquelet was the same thing. While the chicken was baby-sized, it was old in texture--the meat dried out and overcooked to the point of being blackened (and not in a Cajun way). It didn't have the spice of jerk chicken but was palatable when dipped in the yoghurt and chilli sauce.

The straight-up BBQ chicken breast with "spices of the islands" was way better--tender and moist, tasty but simple ($8.95). The generous serving was accompanied by a bowl of souped-up gravy and roasted potatoes smothered in sour cream.

Coq En Stock has a few touches that set it above other chicken franchises. I appreciated the juicy, freshly cut limes, attentive service and some of the speciality items on the menu. The ginger beer, for example, is fantastic. More like ginger juice with a hint of cinnamon, it has a biting edge that's toned down by the sugar that rims the glass. They also sell Jones soda, ultramodern pop that comes in grape, pineapple, blue bubblegum and green apple flavours.

Desserts are also funky, featuring items like Jamaican mousse, a fluffy mixture of chocolate and rum and something called coco quemado, a coconut milk pudding. We opted to share a slice of Key lime pie, which was the requisite bright yellow colour, tart but sweet.

While it will satisfy a chicken craving, the food is a pale imitation of fiery Jamaican fare and not as straightforward as your average rotisserie. It's too bad Coq En Stock is not a more intimate mom 'n' pop joint, because everything would taste better in those surroundings. That said, there is a takeout and delivery service if you want to bring some bird home, listen to your own music and look at your own happy face.

Coq En Stock

Address: 1241 Mont-Royal E.

Phone: 522-1000

Hours: 11:30am-10pm

Best features: chicken choices, drinks, desserts

Alcohol: yes

Vegetarian friendly: not really

Credit cards: yes

Wheelchair access: yes

Price: $12/person without tax, drinks or tip

Rating: HH out of HHHH