Spanish flies

Romance and tradition mingle at the newly expanded Casa Tapas

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

In addition to being synonymous with a dodgy aphrodisiac, the pesky Spanish fly plays an interesting role in the development of tapas, that irresistible branch of Spanish cuisine. Originally served as snacks to accompany wine, tapas kept workers going during the day while soaking up their copious intake of alcohol. The word tapa means "lid," referring to slices of bread, ham or cheese placed over the wine glass to prevent flies from drowning in the drink.

What began as simple rustic fare soon proliferated with ingredients like olives, almonds and sherry, which have made their way into a variety of tasty treats. The modern-day lure of tapas is that it allows diners to experience several dishes in one sitting. And Montreal's Casa Tapas has been full to the brim since it opened in 1995. If ever there was a resto that needed to expand, it's this one. Owners Juan and Marco Pico were constantly struggling to fit lineups into cramped quarters where both waiters and customers had little elbow room to spare.

The restaurant recently doubled in size, including tasteful renovations like a long wooden bar, glassed-in wine cellar and burnt-orange and yellow walls. The matador mural outside is still intact, as is the inviting atmosphere inside. Despite the romantic ambiance, I found the new lighting a little too diffused for a sensual evening of eating and there are still no clear paths for the servers to navigate between tables--but maybe the occasional bump is part of the charm.

Tapas can serve as appetizers or make up a full meal if you select a handful of dishes from the vegetable, meat and seafood categories. Prices range from $5.50 for a tortilla (potato omelette) to $8.95 for rabbit with onions, saffron and white grapes. Meal-sized paellas, including a vegetarian version, are also available.

We started out with a couple of soups. The tureen of gazpacho ($3.50) was perfectly chilled, with a smooth texture and refreshing tomato and cucumber flavours. Nicely spiced, it was the soup equivalent of a Bloody Mary. The garlic and saffron soup ($4) was presented piping hot in a low, peasant-style dish. Copious amounts of minced garlic floated in a tangy broth, amidst huge croutons and diced tomatoes.

We ordered five tapas for two, which turned out to be the perfect amount. The most simple dish was a plate of chorizo, ham and cheese, an assortment of cold cuts garnished with pickles. The red-tinted Spanish sausage made of pork, paprika and garlic was spicy and almost sweet, the serrano ham smoky and the "rocinante" cheese wedges tangy, like a mix between fresh parmesan and aged cheddar.

My favourite was the shrimp croquettes, browned balls that looked like potato puffs but tasted like shrimp. The mussels with cream and leek sauce were also delicious and not at all watery, the sauce thickened with cream and pungent with white wine. The calamari in tomato sauce was tender and flavourful. The stuffed eggplant was slightly undercooked, but the flavours of cheese and herbs were delightful.

The food was slow coming from the kitchen, maybe because the chef has to juggle a lot of complicated dishes for each table, rather than a single main course. Still, the new Casa Tapas remains a rare blend of classy and homey. And although the place may now be bigger, it's still jam-packed, with crowds rolling at 11 p.m. on a Wednesday night, ready to take their liquor the wise way--with food and without flies.

Casa Tapas

Address: 266 Rachel E.

Phone: 848-1063

Hours: Sun & Mon 5-11pm; Tues-Sat 5-12pm

Best features: lively, lots to sample, wine

Alcohol: yes

Vegetarian friendly: yes

Credit cards: yes

Wheelchair access: four steep steps up

Price: $19/person without tax, drinks or tip

Rating: HHH 1/2 out of HHHH