Delicious Mauritius

Les Délices de l'ile Maurice is a tropical paradise in Verdun

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

If you have no idea where Mauritius is, don't count on your tastebuds to steer you in the right direction. Its cuisine, like its history, is a real stewing pot of influences. This island country in the Indian Ocean, near Madagascar, has the dubious reputation of being colonized by the Portuguese, Dutch, French and British (mercifully, the latter's influence on the food is imperceptible). Throw into the mix that fact that its residents are of Chinese, Indian and African origin, and the result is a spicy mélange of flavours.

Armchair travellers will find a multitude of books about this island paradise on the window sill of Les Délices de L'ile Maurice in Verdun. What's that, you have no idea where Verdun is either? Well, then it's time to explore a neighbourhood that has some fantastic eateries--you can get there easily from de L'Église metro or by bike on a warm summer evening.

Incidentally, Mauritius' economy is based on sugar cane, tourism and gambling, and chef/proprietor Sylvestre certainly played the odds in opening this unassuming resto on a side street just off Wellington. However, business is brisk, so expect lineups and less of Sylvestre's undivided attention on weekends. But you will see him--a large Asian man in shorts and a V-necked butcher's smock, who talks like de Gaulle--watching the wall-mounted TV while taking periodic smoke breaks from the steamy open kitchen.

Barely have you nestled yourself into a seat when you are presented with a plate of fried cabbage, an intricate yellow mass with a delicious chewy/crunchy texture. It is lightly battered in flour before being dropped into hot oil with shallots, spices and onion ("not too much or it will get soggy," Sylvestre cautions). It's accompanied by four homemade sauces-- mint, tomato, garlic and chili pepper--in wonderfully mismatched containers.

Then, before you have a chance to ask for a menu, a dahl soup appears, tasty and hearty, served with a wedge of lemon.

So now the menu, you wonder? Nope, just Sylvestre himself, hovering over the table and reeling off a list of dinner options that includes just about every fish and meat that has ever graced the pages of The Joy of Cooking. Be prepared to choose from various sauces as well: Créole, Cajun, curry, tomato or saffron. If you're the indecisive type, just keep in mind that everything is so fresh and aromatic that it would be hard to go wrong. And don't even think about back-tracking, the food will arrive steaming hot before you've even had a chance to say "or maybe saffron..."

The main course of lamb curry was exquisitely tender--no knife needed. The sauce was rich, pungent, and delightfully spicy.

Seafood is another specialty. The scallops were huge and lightly seared, topped with a Cajun sauce of tomato, onions, peppers and ginger. Both dishes came with rice and a serving of salad topped with a light, creamy dressing similar to raita.

For dessert, our affable host minced over several times with a bag of chewy fruit candies. And beware: coffee will be refilled even if you put your hands over the cup. But the craziest thing about this restaurant is that the whole meal, tax included, costs a firm $8.05.

We left Sylvestre puffing on a cigarette as he surveyed a mass of dirty dishes. "Slavery," he sighed. "I treat the customers like kings. Let me tell you, if I win the 6/49 I am out of here in an instant."

Fortunately for us, the odds aren't too good on him winning the lottery anytime soon. :

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Les Délices de l'ile Maurice

Address: 272 Hickson, Verdun

Phone: 768-6023

Hours: 5-10pm

Best features: fresh, fun, affordable

Alcohol: BYOB

Vegetarian friendly: seafood

Credit cards: no

Wheelchair access: yes

Price: $8.05 per person including tax, without drinks & tip

Rating: HHH out of HHHH