Yo momo!

>> Chez Gatsé serves up Tibetan treats worth yakking about

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

Chez Gatsé has long been the only Tibetan restaurant in Montreal, the kind of low-key local institution that world-weary diners might easily overlook amid all the new-fangled ethnic establishments out there.

This downstairs space in the Quartier Latin has low ceilings, dark pub chairs and white brick walls splashed with colourful fabric. In the back there is an oasis of greenery--a private two-tiered patio overhung with trees and vines. On the night we visited, the terrasse was drenched so we had to settle for a cozy table inside.

The menu offers several soups, from a beef consommé to a spinach and egg concoction. By far the most intriguing is the chouru, recommended for fans of blue cheese only. It's milky and flavourful, with an unmistakable blue cheese taste that fades just enough after each spoonful to keep you digging in for more. The lentil soup called tinchougna is also delicious. It's similar to dahl, but the Gatsé version is more mildly spiced and earthier than what you'll find in Indian restaurants. At $2.25 a bowl, the soups make great appetizers.

Momos are another Tibetan staple you won't want to miss. These stuffed doughy pockets are comparable to Chinese dumplings or Polish pierogis, but the texture is distinctive. The freshly steamed dough is offered with a variety of fillings: beef, chicken, vegetable and a slightly sweet cheese. They are brought to the table piping hot, along with a small bowl of mildly spiced tomato dipping sauce. You can make a meal out of them or opt for a side order.

For the main course, my companion sampled shapta ($7.85), a hearty version of a stir-fry. It was a simple dish made up of thin slices of perfectly cooked beef and onions, served with a generous amount of a light gravy with hints of Asian flavourings. It was a nice contrast to the choko khatsé, a spiced potato side dish that was almost tongue-searing in comparison.

I chose the lhassa ($7.35), which consisted of two pieces of skinless chicken that had been marinated and simmered until the meat was so tender that it was falling off the bone. The sauce was rich and delicately spiced, with a hint of turmeric and a sprinkling of fresh coriander.

Both dishes were served with bean sprouts, a broccoli floret and slices of raw cucumber and tomato. As an accompaniment, you can also choose between a bowl of rice or tinmo, a white, doughy, steamed bread. Similar to the momos, the texture of tinmo is spongy and dense, calling to mind something you were told not to eat as a kid, like Play-doh. It's also great for wiping up the remaining sauce from your plate.

If you're a vegetarian, there are noodle dishes and meal-in-a-bowl noodle soups to choose from. But keep in mind that Tibet's is a meat-centric cuisine, as a variety of vegetables were not traditionally available in this high-altitude region.

I suspect Tibetans aren't big fans of dessert. We were offered canned peaches and cream-which turned out, unsurprisingly, to be very retirement home. I tried out the butter tea and all I can say is that it's really hard to imagine someone craving a hot cup of this greasy and strangely salty liquid.

Here, the been-there, tasted-that crowd will find a refreshingly straightforward presentation of cuisine from a far-away culture that has all the homeyness of comfort food with a hint of the adventurously exotic. :

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Chez Gatsé

Address: 317 Ontario E.

Phone: 985-2494

Hours: lunch 11:30am-2:30pm, Mon-Fri; supper 5:30-10:30pm, daily

Best features: cozy, comforting and cheap

Vegetarian friendly: yes, but you'll miss out

Credit cards: yes

Wheelchair access: three steps down

Alcohol: yes

Price: $10/person before drinks, tax and tip

Rating: *** out of ****