Japanese, if you please

>> Outremont's Maiko Sushi rises from the ashes

by SPANKY HOROWITZ

Each time I strolled by Maiko Sushi, I promised myself that next issue, I would review it. Then the gods of fire beat procrastination to the punch and the place burned to the ground. Well, the phoenix has risen from the ashes--Maiko Sushi is back, stronger and better than before.

The owners have redecorated, improving upon their previous design, right down to the matching blue glass ashtrays and water glasses. Tatami rooms are available for those who prefer authenticity and privacy. The large windows open on warm days to bathe diners with fresh air, and blinds can be pulled down at each table to protect against the blazing rays of the sun.

We chose to sit next to the giant aquarium, whose rainbow-coloured inhabitants were almost as, if not more, beautiful than the clientele seated near our table.

I tried to order some of the fish from the tank, but they were not on the menu, so I stuck to the regular fare. The Konomono ($3) was a dazzling circle of fluorescent yellow slices of crunchy Japanese radish surrounding a centrepiece of stringed carrot--edible art at its finest. Another alternative to the regular green salad (which comes with a tasty peanut dressing) is the Sunomono Deluxe ($8), a medley of octopus, shrimp, tamago crabstick and vermicelli in a Japanese dressing. I would have preferred the regular Sunomono ($5), which is not only cheaper, but lets you focus on one type of seafood and employs yam noodles instead of the ho-hum vermicelli.

If you know your sushi and sashimi, you can custom order your own, but I opted for the platter ($20) which features 10 various pieces and one roll of the chef's choice. The raw fish was extremely fresh and gave a sharper focus than other lower-grade sushi will provide. The chef's choice was a spicy salmon tempura. After spicing, breading and deep-frying the fish, the chef rolled it up into some Japanese rice and seaweed to create the ultimate Japanese fingerfood. It was like having sushi, tempura and teriyaki in the same bite! The chef's choice was the same two days in a row, but I didn't complain because it was, hands down, my favourite of the bunch.

If you aren't into raw fish, you can select rolls that include only vegetables and/or cooked fish (shrimp, scallop, smoked salmon, crab etc.), or opt for beef and/or chicken. My top pick is the grilled sirloin steak, cooked medium-rare, almost raw in the middle, resting on a bed of stir-fried vegetables. Another killer choice is the Oyaki Don ($12): strips of breaded and broiled chicken filet mixed together with egg, shallots and a tangy soy-based sauce, sitting atop a mound of plain rice. I was full when it arrived, but it was so heavenly I ate it anyway.

If you're short on cash or new to the world of eating raw fish, go during lunch hours to take advantage of the specials, which include soup, salad, main course, dessert and green tea served in a real Tetsubin --a real bargain. If you go for dinner, be prepared to drop some serious dough, but you'll walk away with a memorable experience that remains unequalled in many eating establishments in Montreal. Itadakimasu! (Bon appétit!) :

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Maiko Sushi

Address: 387 Bernard w.

Phone: 490-1225

Hours: lunch 11:30am-2pm, dinner 5-10:30pm

Best features: elegant atmosphere, top-notch sushi and teriyaki

Vegetarian friendly: yes

Credit cards: yes

Wheelchair access: yes

Price: lunch specials are $8-15, dinner is $11-80 before tax, tip or drinks

Rating: **** out of ****