Roti at risk

>> It would be a shame if the Curry Garden left St-Viateur street

by SPANKY HOROWITZ

As St-Viateur street slowly morphs into something resembling Laurier street, I find solace in the few businesses that keep me coming back. One that is safe from gentrification, for now, is the Caribbean Curry Garden, just east of Clark. A lovely lady named Rita and her family serve traditional Caribbean and Guyanese food in a homey, relaxed atmosphere.

You'll probably have trouble finding it because the sign outside advertises the now-closed Restaurant Tournesol. Inside, a handful of tables covered in plastic-lace tablecloths are flanked by an oversized menu and a couple of world maps on the walls to show you where Guyana is located (not in Africa, but in South America). The family who owns and runs the restaurant lives upstairs, so don't be surprised to see some Guyanese children milling in and out periodically to get some advice--or food--from Mummy. I find it very comforting to know that the owners feed their children the same food that they serve me.

The menu is one page--that's it, that's all. A bowl of dahl soup ($2), some potato balls ($2) or phulouri ($2) will keep you going while you wait for your meal, but the wait is never long. The soup is a simple one, made with lentils, onions and some light seasonings. It's very satisfying from a flavour standpoint, but don't expect it to fill your belly. It's not a meal, it's meant to prepare your stomach for the feast that is on the way.

The potato balls are kinda like Snuffleupagus from Sesame Street. The owners (and some of my friends who claim to have tasted them) tell me they're great, but when I ask about them, I'm always told they were just there, but now they've gone. I've been to this restaurant at least half a dozen times and I have yet to see--or taste--these deep-fried delicacies. As a consolation I'm usually offered a plate of phulouri (chick-pea dumplings), which are great--kind of like getting to see Elmo instead.

As you dip your phulouri into the hot sauce from the little squeeze-bottle on your table, you'll notice a bottle-opener. This archaic piece of equipment is essential because Rita's sodas are not Coke or Pepsi, but an assortment of Caribbean sodas that do not have space-age twist-off caps. There are many exotic flavours to sample, but I'm fond of the ginger beer (when it's cold) or the sorrel soda.

The main dishes are divided into three categories: roti, curries and Guyanese-style dishes. Each of these delicacies can be made with your choice of vegetables, chicken, shrimp or goat. I've tried 'em all and they're all part of my regular rotation when eating here. I recently had the pleasure of trying something that is NOT on the menu: roti, Guyanese style. This is a plate of the stuff that goes inside the roti, along with the giant super-thin pita-like thing that is used to make a sort of Caribbean tortilla. You can build your own roti, or you can tear off pieces of the dough and dip them into the stew at a leisurely pace. Impress your friends (and your palate) by ordering this specialty next time you're there.

There are rumours about town that Rita and her family are planning to pack up and move their restaurant to some other undeserving locale. Please try this Caribbean Curry Garden before it's too late. Or better yet, eat there regularly if you enjoy it so we can keep this joint in the neighbourhood. :

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Le Jardin du Cari Caribbean Curry Garden

Address: 21 St-Viateur W.

Phone: 495-0565

Hours: noon-9:30pm daily, except Sundays 5-9:30pm, closed Mondays

Best features: simple Caribbean and Guyanese dishes served by a Guyanese family

Alcohol: wine and beer

Vegetarian friendly: yes

Credit cards: yes

Wheelchair access: yes

Price: $5-15 per person, before drinks, tax and tip

Rating: *** out of ****